I’ll confirm next weekend when mine is out, assuming the hacks that worked on the car previously didn’t mess something up! (Whoever worked on my car in the past replaced many of the original bolts with whatever happened to be at hand that fit in the hole. Kind of frustrating, and I find more problems the more I look)

If I remember correctly, there are six bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank, and a locking tab for each set of two bolts. I seem to remember they were a royal pain to bend once the flywheel was installed!

Edit: the parts book confirms, three lock plates, PN 300163.

locktite
And surely Ken will confirm when he pulls his engine this weekend...

I had my 1937 "120" engine rebuilt locally several years ago. I had a new ring gear installed on the flywheel and had it resurfaced, I've just realized that the shop never returned the bolting from the flywheel to the crankshaft and the shop is now out of business. I was able to purchase the correct 7/16 x 20 bolts from "Merritt" but since I didn't take this apart I was wondering if lock washers are needed on these bolts? My master parts list doesn't list any lock washers, the part number for the bolts is 300162. Just trying to avoid a future major problem. Thanks

Yeah - I don't really want to, but I think it will be faster to pull, clean, paint, and reinstall then it would be to mask everything I don't want Packard green. Good thing this was a simple head gasket job in August, right? Haha - it'll be good once it is. Thanks for the encouragement - we will get our cars back on the road one of these days.

I'm sure it will look great when it's all done. And if you're already that close to getting the engine out, might as well go all the way.

After considering it quite a bit, I'm just going to pull the engine to repaint it. The bellhousing is also the wrong color, and I'm just not willing to risk accidentally getting some overspray on the body. I already had everything removed except the four bolts holding it to the transmission, so it won't be that much extra work, and I'm removing the risk of overspray. I'll also get a better result.

With family in town, other projects, etc, it looks like I'll get the engine pulled next Thursday or Friday and painted that weekend. With any luck it will be back on the road by the middle of October, but it's an old car, so who knows! :)

Dell, after looking at my spare Backup Light. I notice it has three wire spring clips in it where this one has only two. So I'm wondering if someone didn't stick this clip in there to make up for the missing clip. So pulled a spring clip out of the spare and putting it back together.

Howard, it looks like I need to take the carpet up again. I'm hoping it is just that I didn't get the panel on correctly because I didn't have this problem before. But I do need to look into it. I'm just surprise about how it does slap the underside of the floor when the pedal unsticks. Once I get the pedal from sticking then I probably won't notice it anymore.
As always, Thanks for the help guys!
Wes

G'day Emelie(PennyClipper),
to PackardInfo, and I invite you to include your '55 Clipper Custom in the Packard Owner's Registry.

Dad's 56,
to PackardInfo and for including your '56 Executive Hardtop Coupe in the Packard Owner's Registry.

51-56 senders use the same values as some 80s and earlier Ford and Chryslers. Approximately 75 ohms empty and 10 ohms full. The arm length to fit different size tanks is the main difference from the Ford units.