Interesting slammed 51 Henney hearse build

https://www.facebook.com/share/x7amBf5LeRbuhscX/?mibextid=kL3p88

Very interesting Kev and Howard. Hope this isn't too far off topic but do you know what the "BRH:HN" means in the lower corner of the second page? I know that was a "thing" back in the day but don't know what it's called.

Also I noticed often the "BRH" part would be the person's initials who signed the letter, but it's not the case here.

Let's recall that the SC and Howard's images of the sender manuals make it clear that while all 3 senders are constructed with the same TYPE of mechanism and also the same "ohm ranges", the water temperature sender and gauge are backwards, that the open circuit position on the water temp gauge reads high.

I suspect that, per DP's testing, a 20–120 ohm sender would be about right. However, it would have to read 20 ohms COLD and 120 ohms HOT which is the opposite of how pretty much every sender works, since most gauges read down the scale with an open circuit.

I really wonder whether your could disassemble and physically reverse the construction of the temp gauge to make it "normal". Unfortunately I neither have a gauge of that era myself nor even know anyone with a 48-50 car in the Pittsburgh area so I can't personally test this.

Thanks for all the inputs-I found the Classic car mag that gives Darrin credit for the 41-47 clipper. Spring 2023-a article focused on Darrin and his career

If they followed the original specs there would not be a resistance range but you would probably get a reading thru the heater itself. I am wondering if they might have done something in their repro sender similar to what HPH is contemplating with his external circuit.

It is possible the Ford gauge works the same way electrically but is constructed so it mechanically works in the opposite direction. I have no idea whether Fords park at the low or high end but if they park high then instead of the bimetal heating and bending to raise the needle as is done with the K-S gauges Packard used, the Ford gauge would bend and lower the needle. I suppose it is also feasible the Ford gauge is the same but mounted upside down as compared to Packard. The gauge would work the same but needle position at rest and C - H lettering would need to be different.

Again, we have run into the issue that even though they might work electrically, without someone previously trying the Ford senders and reporting back it is unknown if they are a direct replacement. If other wiring issues are ruled out and the gauge is still backwards it seems like perhaps we have an initial NO as to compatibility and it's back to square 1 on finding a replacement or a workaround.

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I only find vague "Moss Tread" references in post-war Packard citations...never run across it in the pre-war realm.

However, in the 37 sales brochure, there is an image and narrative describing how the carpet type with underlying rubber water-resistant lining is part of the design...in essence they describe the same configuration as the post-war "Moss Tread" references. I think a marketing slogan was introduced post-war to communicate the same condition more easily.

I believe this was touched upon in one of the books where the author mentioned Packard making improvements and running changes throughout a series production and in many instances would offer the upgrades to previous owners of that series or even older series when possible or feasible.

This was initially done to counter other mfgs who typically sold a brand new looking car every year which instantly made the previous model obsolete. Packard owners noticed this too but tended to be long standing more conservative customers not necessarily wanting the latest and greatest flash. By doing the upgrade program many still got the current improvements for a minimal cost. This way they did not feel or see their cars immediately losing value and would realize that buying a Packard did not mean early obsolescence..

When the junior cars came along this retrofit program was not as prevalent although Packard did do something similar by making some accessories available for older models. To some extent the programs to retrofit the R11 ODs and the new 52 Easamatic into the 51 models was the same thing. OD was initially promoted as a reliability and Easamatic a safety issue but they were still a throwback to that make it look less obsolete era..

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Cleaned up the post and terminal, reinstalled the cable, and she started up within a single revolution. No flickering on the lights now either. So, maybe it was just a corroded connection? I would think that if it was a short in the solenoid or starter that it would be that way all the time.

I really need to get a cut off switch that can handle 6 volt applications. I'd rather not be removing the ground cable every time I'm done driving.

You for sure dodged a bullet there!