Thanks for those last images of the door parts.

I got the PS pump back in the car but have not started the engine yet to check it out.
If I did nothing else, with that pump, at least it appears that I fixed the leak.

Spent a few hours yesterday and today getting one of the rear, quarter windows in place.

I got my modified regulator in place for the first time. It was too wide at first so I had drill new hole and turn the motor about 45 degrees and trim off about 1/4 of an inch from the bolts and it fit pretty good after that. Its already wired up and working.

You can see in the image below that the window is not all the way up. It is rubbing on the ceiling line as it goes up and I do not want to force it to far. I am trying to adjust that heavy metal pivot piece (in the last image) to move it over a little.

Will try again tomorrow.

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Any service-related content in the General Letters have been added to the Factory Service Index. The bulk of which is mostly applicable to the 1922-1932 cars.

Your pump can leak at the shaft seal, at several of the bolt holes, or if the steel plate on the back of the pump itself is rusted or cavitated, or at either of the two gaskets, one between the pump cover and the pump body, and one between the pump assembly and the engine block. I believe that 4 of the water pump to block bolts require copper washers. To get some of these bolts out, you may need to remove or loosen the fan and pulley. If your pump was in good condition when installed a year ago, my guess is you have a leak at the shaft seal OR at one or more of the bolt heads. Your gaskets could also leak, but that's not likely if care was taken when the pump was installed. If copper washers are not present, that's a very likely source of a slow leak, especially if lockwashers are present under the bolt heads. Of course, hose connections can leak and often do. I've found that old style clamped hose connections often need re-tightened a few days after they are first installed.

Start by disconnecting the battery, you are dealing with full battery amperage here.
I removed the seat base and laid on the passenger side floor boards with the door open. Clip a light up under the dash for best viewing.
The ammeter is pretty simple, one wire goes from the hot side of the starter solenoid, another wire goes out to the rest of the car. It is the 1st link in the chain after the starter so it can read the amperage use for the car's whole system.
There is a wiring diagram in the 37 owners manual here on the "Literature Archive" page, search under "Show by Year" and click on 1937, it is on the list 15 titles down and the schematic is on page 9.
The wires are held to the back of the ammeter by two nuts, (one in one out in series) with fork or hoop style ends.
Bob J.

No need to know how to do it, that is what rebuilders are for. I do not even pretend to know the answer to rebuilders in your area, but I can recommend going to your nearest airplane club, usually at small airports and asking who does their engine work. Most of the antique aircraft need to have engine work done to recertify and their mechanics are top notch and used to dealing with these old style engines. Just a thought, it is what I did.
Bob J.

The front engine mount is part of a steel plate that is bolted to the front of the block and has no connection to the water jacket.
Your leak may be coming from the water pump gasket.

Thanks guys…

I do have concerns on the compression as I posted yesterday. Rebuilding the engine is WAY out of my experience/knowledge level.

Anyone know of or have recommendations for a good shop in the Kansas City area?

Any thoughts on accessing the ammeter to rewire?

It should be fine. That's how I did the manifolds on mine.

The end of that distro tube ends up collecting a alot crud that floats around in the coolant. I'd back flush the motor at a minimum and see how much crud you can flush out.

I'd probably do it a couple of times.

If the motor isn't overheating or doesn't have other issues then no point in stripping it down. But if you getting low compression values, then it may need a looking it.