It could be done but the high beam wire would be awkward to connect to anything since it's a socket and not a screw termination. Would need to run a wire from the foot switch in place of the normal wire.

Since you don't know the fluid, I would remove the pan and clean it, and you can also drain the converter separately per the instructions in the manual (in the Ultramatic removal from car section).

I think standard Type F would work fine. Just makes the shifts and lock up feel not as "smooth" as maybe Dexron.

Additional instructions in the manual for the amount of fluid to add, then start the engine to fill the converter, then add the rest.

According to its previous owner, my '55 Twin Ultramatic was rebuilt sometime in the past and thankfully, it operates like a well rebuilt unit. Unfortunately, I don't have access to any of the specifics of the rebuild and now that the time to refresh the fluid and clean the screen/pan has arrived I'm not sure what trans fluid to use. I'm inclined to try TrickShift Type F to attempt to quell the lock-up groaning that occurs when it's still cold but I'm concerned that it may not play nice if the friction material used in the rebuild is of a more modern material. If any of you have any thoughts, I'd love to hear them. Like I said, the tranny behaves nicely (at least as far as TwinUltras are concerned) and I'd like to keep it that way.

Also, the manual says to re-fill 11qts. of fluid and then top off using the dipstick as a gauge. For those that have done this service, how much total fluid will I need? I'm guessing that 3 gallons should do it but would rather avoid a surprise in the middle of the job.

Thanks
SG

Don't know if this is the correct area or not? How to tell? Thanks

In doing a google seems the copper side should be down toward block.

My 1965 Imperial with a full gauge array has a Check Gauges light which I always thought was a nice feature as it drew my attention to a problem (especially being low on fuel) if I wasn’t paying attention. I don‘t drive my Packards so don’t need one for those (and if I did it would have to be for the 6v cars) but I do have a thought. How about repurposing the high bean indicator with a two-color LED that would act normally for the high beam but flash in a different color for the alert?

Instructions on positioning the engine and oil pump gears are given in a few paragraphs before the six gear is shown in figure 49 of this manual. It is exactly the same photo as shown on page 40 in the engine section of the full 46-50 manual but in this single booklet scan page numbers are missing but the photos are much better. You can see the punch marks they refer to at the end of the gear.

Well, the stars have aligned. The network, starting with Flackmaster lead me to a nice set of front fenders. Now, we just have to figure out the best way to get them half way across the country.

Thank you for your reply. I remember seeing this video before however, he does not go into detail how to set up the oil pump correctly to the distributor on a 6 cylinder Packard (110) which I have. I had found out that they are set up differently then the 8 cylinder motors that he is working with in the video.
Thank you again for your help and information. I will keep this video as he does share what I believe is useful information for sure.
Thanks again, John

The 1922-1932 (1st-9th Series) Service Index information has been indexed and added to the Factory Service Index feature here on the website. If you haven't used that before, you really should. It helps to located information spread accoss all Service Letters, Service Counselors, and Service Techinical Bulletins.

Sometimes, the factory updated the information you are looking for many years after your model year. So simply looking at your model year's Service Letters is not sufficient. The index takes care of all that for you.

I still need to do a little auditing and cleanup to make sure all the Service Letters in the archive have been fully indexed. Once those are done, then I can start to lacing in the information in the Genereal Letters, Trade Letters, etc which also contain Service Information not found in other sources.

Still missing the above Service Items (prior post) from the archive, if you can help out to fill those in, that would be wonderful! Once I have those pieces, I can add those to the Factory Service Index as well.

Hello all,

I know some time back someone had the idea of a basic circuit that would warn of low oil pressure. Basically an "idiot light" for cars not so equipped. Could also easily add some sort of buzzer in case the light is not obvious in daylight.

I think I can throw something together that would work pretty well on nearly any car. The idea would be to have something that goes off when you have low oil, low fuel, or high coolant temp. And an array of switches and adjustment knobs on the circuit so you can customize what exactly happens. It would attach to the oil sender terminal on the oil gauge; likewise for the others.

I would ballpark an MSRP of only $29.99 for this device. A lot cheaper than a new engine part or a ride on the tow truck. Let me know if you are interested.

Also, if you have info on the sender ranges I would appreciate it. As far as I'm aware, pretty much everything is in the 10 ohm (high gauge) to 80 ohm (low gauge) range, except the "square wave" senders, which are a different beast, but could probably be accommodated with an accessory RC circuit.