The guy in Canada, CNC machines from a digital file on flat stock and then coats to give the smooth surface. He can only make the rubber. He was seasonal based on volume. I talked to him on the phone but many years now.
Someone else claimed to have made from a mold but the quality was not acceptable as the part was not pristine and I never heard more from them. I contacted other potential suppliers too.
I have all the info, drawings, etc. but no longer am pursuing as that project is back burner and changed from a resto to a hot rod/custom. Not to mention, at my age, the faster I move the slower I get.
The sill mat is backed by a steel backer that has slots and clips that engage the rocker panel, so that steel piece has to be created as well, as they rot. It requires a stamping. Then a rubber part has to be laminated to that backer. That technology isn't done much today. Mostly glues, etc. Not a DIY process either, need chemicals and heat and pressure/press.
There just is not enough need to justify any break even enterprise here. I had maybe a handful interested. Plus there's the coupe v 4 dr split.
They used to do things that way, but the buggy whip effect applies here.
I'm not a fan of OEM rubber floor mats, and authenticity for me is trumped by functional. Natural rubber just doesn't last, so it'll need replaced at some point. If you put that time and money in, it has to last, and the OEM may not give the best life. They weren't designed that way. Crank out the model year mode.
Ps: I have a copy of the 23 series sill mat drawing and had it digitized, if anyone needs it. Not going to wholesale distribute as I paid for it, genuine need only.

If no one closer to you has one, I can probably find a good one.

FWIW, because they're a metal stamping, they often get bent while the engine is being pulled/stored.

jack vines

Simply a change in technology occurred, so no longer made that way. I can't even find paper heavy enough to make some duct items, let alone staplers heavy enough to recreate. Forced to use alternates. The OEM doesn't survive this long.

I went thorough this recently with the Cad, and opted for industrial grade hose sold by the foot, so not paying those "niche" supplier prices. It's unseen. Also a weird size 5", so may not be around later - has to last.
Rubber items are becoming an issue too.
I'm changing a fender, and the 3 little bumpers and plugs that fit in your hand came to $40+. An 5" X 3" unobtainium blower to heater flex duct, is reproduced and was $140. Glad to get them as the alternates were not good.
If you want to find parts for your vehicle better buy new.

guilty of fueling the digression, and with "snappiest" being a bit vague, consider the 1940 160 business coupe (yes, 127" wb but power/weight) and the Speedster series in their day.

Packard never really made small cars so their agility was never tops - your choices indicate this is big in "snappiest" (and I agree).

Could be a push in style speed clip.

Sorry about all the question guys. I am all over the board on this car.

The holes in the top of the taillight area, seen below, look like I cage nut belongs there. I do not see any cage nuts in the parts list for that location.

Also, the parts bag that I have for the taillights contains 4 chrome plated screws for that location. A cage nut would use bolts wouldn't it? What goes in those square holes?

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Aluminum is not the way to go. Split . while cutting gap.

Going to try 16 gauge angle.

Aluminum is to thick to fit behind casting line.

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Thanks, Monsignor Hanson. As always, Howard nails it, even includes that period cutaway and description.

Perhaps much ado 'bout little, but it'd be nice to get fresh air into the cabin when the cowl vent closed.

The two pictured duct adapters are almost 3" outer diameter. Why that size and not an even three beyond me. They're actually 1/32" or so smaller, but the ducting must've been 3" inner diameter.

As Spudman reports, the smell of plastic is not what's wanted in an auld luxe barouche. Am sure i could find some dryer/HVAC stuff at Lowe's, Home Depot, but then you've got that glossy, shiny vinyl/rubber.

Think of all the tripe reproduced for old cars. Wouldn't you think someone would have such plebian, widely and long used, simple, cheap ducting? This is one time when something chintzy wanted. Flat/matt black.

Hard to get precise length, because it has to curve a little to not chafe against carb linkage, and as you see in my pictures Howard posted above, the front duct snout to the right of the radiator is angled. But 37, no more'n 38 inches would nail it.

Any of you with junior 1942-47 Clippers can subtract seven inches from that figure, and congratulate yourselves on having more rational cars, 120" wb instead of my comic opera 127" making for an ideal sized old car. Some of you might not think seven inches of wheelbase would make such a difference, but it does. Also, the 282 engine all anyone needs, less of a load for brakes, shocks.

Way off subject, but as a sport car guy at heart, think Packard's snappiest cars were the first generation 120, like Kev's Packuar, and the '42-'47 junior eight Clippers, all w/ OD, original or added.

Oh yes, it's been years since I looked at the brakes on my Packards!

Dwight and the other vendors seem to only sell the short lengths of 5 inch duct used for the air vent and heater in 51-6 cars. What Mike is looking for is a 3 inch diameter by roughly 4-6 ft piece used for the optional fresh air vent in 41-7 Clippers. That option has a screw on adapter with a valve at the firewall end which feeds fresh air to the heater and an intake end adapter positioned on the passenger side radiator shroud with the length of duct connecting them.

Since the duct is high and in your face he would like to find something close to the original in look and preferably without needing to buy a 25 ft or longer length. Modern material seems to be a thin vinyl material used for ducts like dryer vents or a thick corrugated neoprene hose like material, both of which are very shiny and modern looking in comparison to the original dull black fabric duct. Even the modern defroster duct seems to have gone the shiny vinyl route.

IMO the reason the older stuff is getting hard to find is it is probably harder to make and harder to use. It appears to be made of layers of impregnated fabric glued together so probably needs a spiral winding process to get the pieces under and over the wire support and glued together. I expect that is expensive in comparison to the modern stuff which looks like it is made of vinyl and probably made by sending molten material and the slinky like support wire thru a continuous extrusion process. More expensive and stiff so harder to use in a congested dash or engine cmpt probably means low demand.

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