OK, I was able to perform the test wiring together the #3 and #4 terminals and the plunger pops out and stays out. Additionally, I connected only to #3 and manually pulled out the plunger and it stayed out once pulled out completely.
Looking more closely at the manual, it looks like the I was confusing the "insulator" over the points for the indicator light with the ground out contacts. So, I gather the indicator light contacts are the plunger top and points on the large spring arm, and the other arm above that point set is some sort of insulator, although it definitely looks like a set of points. But, my light has always extinguished once the OD is engaged.
So, I think the solenoid is operating as it should.
While this is out, are there any other tests I should perform on it or the car to help determine the problem?
I would like to systematically go through the OD electrical switches and circuits to move through each system and locate the issue. Is there a manual out there that will help with that process? There is a good thread in the post-war forum, but the terminals, etc. are not similar enough for me (because I don't know what I am doing) to follow it through. It seems like there must be a reference manual for the electrical part of this system.

Continuing the comments on the reliability of the various vehicles involved in the movie shoot, this post will be about the clone Cop Car, a 1989 Chevrolet Caprice Classic.

Apparently the Blues Brothers 2000 sequel featured a 1989 Chevy Caprice as the cop car (the original had a 1973 Dodge Monaco as the cop car). The UK director had two Caprice in England and asked me to find one locally to clone. In two days, I had found one on Craigslist in Las Vegas and had the money electronically transferred to me for purchase.

1) Despite the seller's claims, the Caprice would not go over 35 mph. So, we rented a U-Haul car transport trailer and hauled it to Pahrump. The problem turned out to also be fuel delivery, but not because of vapor lock. Originally a Fuel Injection engine, someone had removed the FI and substituted an E-carb and intake. Since the fuel line pressure on an FI is about 45psi, the inlet line to the carb needed to be regulated down. This was done incorrectly --actually, stupidly-- as a "T" was used with one arm the line from the fuel pump in the tank and the other arm to the return line to the tank. The leg was regulated down to 5psi with a cheap "dead head" type regulator and connected to the carb inlet. Naturally, almost all the fuel was going in a circuit from and back to the tank through the two arms of the "T"! A proper regulator and replumbing solved this problem.

2) As soon as I got the engine running properly, the cooling system overheated -- and it was still in the 90s at that time. I removed the radiator, had it rodded out (about 80% clogged according to the rad shop), reinstalled it with proper coolant and that solved that.

3) The engine was equipped with shorty headers upon which the ignition wires kept landing, burning through and shorting out. Rerouting, replacing, and having proper wire connectors solved that.

4) The only idiot light which worked was the overtemp light. The low oil pressure light send was not even connected. An inexpensive triple gauge set solved that.

All of the above occured before the movie shoot date just to get a sort of reliable driver.

As related above, the Caprice made it from Pahrump to Las Vegas and performed OK for the first night shoot. However...

5) On the trip to Crystal from Las Vegas, the Caprice had to stop twice for blue-gray smoke coming out from underneath. Upon inspection the first time it was apparent that oil was leaking down the back of the engine onto the exhaust pipe. Also, the oil level was low due to the leak, so that caused the second stop in Indian Springs (about 25 mi from Crystal) to purchase extra oil. After several of us looking at it, the consensus is that the gasket at the back of the intake manifold has pushed out and oil is getting out of the lifter valley by that route.

6) Finally, the Caprice is getting really lousy gas mileage, so it was left in Crystal after the shoot because the gas tank was almost empty.

Next...the problems with the two Packards!

Craig

Good point. Where he says that the manual refeered to a special puller I just assumed... and you know what that means

Wait a minute guys, before you start offering up advice on pullers and the like, do we know if he's working on the front or the rear? If it's the front and they're not coming off, then he needs to back the shoes off some more. My front ones were pretty stubborn and took a little persuasion but no puller was needed.

If it's the rear of course you need a puller, but find out where someone's at on the car before you recommend a puller for the front brakes!

Thanks for that insight into Larry, that's exactly the kind of gentleman I would have expected he was. Though I never met him in person we did speak on occasion on the phone about the 33/34 NorthEast systems and at one point I did purchase a set of replacement coils from him, complete with base and caps. It was almost too nice to put on the car, belonged on a mantle or similar. And when I did after a while have problems with one of the coils, there was never any question or issue, he just promptly made good on the matter. A fine example for other Packard vendors.

Find a store that sells KD tools and ask for # 2251. Not cheap but its the only thing that works. If you can't find one contact me via PM. I sell them
MikeG

First test....
If it is 5 lug wheels and wheelbase is 127"...it is a Super Eight 1003...small 5 pass sedan.

If it is 6 lug wheels and wheelbase is 134"...it is a Twelve 1023....small 5 pass sedan...(same body as 1003 but typical Twelve upholstery.

Keep Smiling...

Bob

Larry Justice was a close friend and we had many discussions about things to do with distributors and coils.

For years we had a Saturday car guys lunch at a local restaurant, never knew who would show up, or how many.
As it was close to Larry's home he was almost always there and the chair at the head of the table was his, if he didn't show up the chair would be left empty. Larry was liked and respected by everyone he met, he is missed.

Larry was one of the first to build coils for Twelves and 33-34 dual coil systems. I never got involved in building coils as I didn't want to encroach on Larry.

I developed the 6th.- 9th series conversion because at the time I had a 32 902 and got tired of filing the burnt up points every 50 or so miles to make it run right, and I could not bring myself to pay $100+ for a set of points.

Sincerely, John

Follow this thread along with the links.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=35213#forumpost35213 On the thread that shows the proper puller, some have mentioned where they obtained one. The type I believe you describe will not work on really tight drums as yours appear to be and will probably damage them.

In order to test and prevent the machine gunning, you have to energize terminals 3 and 4 at the same time. The power at 4 will allow the pull in and when pull in contacts open, the power at 3 will be there for hold coil to keep it in. This is essentially the way it is wired in normal operation by circuitry in the relay. Easiest way to do this is get a short piece of wire long enough to connect both terminals together and then to your power source. Needs to be reasonably heavy --14 ga at least. After it is energized properly and stays out, then look at your contacts and see if they are still as you mentioned.