I like to use a dial indicator with a magnetic base. I stick the base to the axle and let the probe push against the backing plate. Push the axle in, then pull it outwards and read the difference. Or push the axle in and then clamp some bent up piece of steel to the axle with a vice grip or clamp. Clamp the steel so it is just touching the backing plate, then pull the axle outwards and measure the gap with feeler gages.

Awesome. Thanks, guys. Can confirm, nothing seemed particularly unusual from the rear end prior to disassembly. Was smooth and quiet.

In checking for end play, what is the best way to do this absent the gauge mention in the manual?

"...The absence of chips or noise tells me the diff is fine..."

... or vibrations.

Cool '47 Clipper long wheelbase car with divider and jump seats. Not mine, saw on Facebook Marketplace here: '47 Clipper Long Wheelbase

Pretty cool Packard in my opinion! Where is Wat? Fred would look good being chauffeured around in this Clipper! (Poor Fred is probably ready for a road trip after being under house arrest for so long! )

"1947 Packard clipper $11,000 Listed 3 days ago in Winchester, TN
1947 Packard Clipper limo it powered with an in line 8 cylinder as indicated in the pictures it has the fold out middle seat and a hand crank middle privacy window nice solid, southern car. This was used in Atlanta for weddings, prom, and other special occasions."

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no problem, Thanks Don

Sorry, it could be a change between 22nd and 23rd series as mine came from a Henney-Packard where such changes were rare.

Don, Thanks for the reply. The pictures you show have the mounting for the handles on the inside of the door. My handles have the mounting screws on the outside. Do you have any like the attached picture?

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In your top photo the thrust washers are on the smaller spider gears that run left-right in the photo. Up down in your photo are the side gears, the axle shafts protrude through these and touch against the thrust block. The axles should push against the block directly so I am perplexed by that shim (?) that seems adhered to the side of the thrust block. It should pull right out as the thrust block has plain flat sides. The thrust block should have quite a bit up up-down play in your photo.

The absence of chips or noise tells me the diff is fine. When you reassemble, you will need to pay particular attention to your axle end play as I am guessing that piece of metal was somebody's fix for not understanding how to regulate the play with the shims out at the wheel bearings.

Hi Don,
I purchased my mirrors from an online shop here in Germany Oldtimerbedarf
Yes, one screw head is visible, but they are close enough for me.

Engine is long since sold and gone to the right owner/home/car. In fact, I delivered it to his garage door....planets just happen to align on that day.
NO, no others on the radar at present. Post your specific needs/issues and with any luck (which you will need for 385 stuff), someone might be able to help.

DAF