Thanks Jack, I appreciate your feedback, though my experience differs on point 1. With a piloted hole and proper technique you can get very good tolerances just with a drill press and bit. For example I have used a 6.3mm (.252) drill in the past to drill sliding fit ¼" dowel pin holes. Obviously yes if you need like 0.0005 diametral tolerance you'll need more precise tools.

Anyway, it turned out that boring the hole was not needed as even though the hole was about .6222 and the bushing .6272, I was able to just tap the bushing in with a ball peen, using the shaft to pilot it. The installed bushing ID is about .497 which is great for the maing shaft dia. Then I just deburred with a drill bit, not by passing the bit, but just holding it at an angle and using the cutting edges to deburr.

The quad ring is easily installed or removed with a pick once the bushing is installed.

Reminder: this is a spare oil pump, not the one off my engine. When I pull that I will inspect it the same way and also try to test the performance of it somehow. Still thinking of the easiest/best way to do that. Want to try as-is, then with this bushing mod, then add Ross's mod on top of that.

Here are pictures showing the install. The second picture shows the approximate location of the installed parts.

Hello Everyone!
I went to the went to the Delco Remy web page and they have a find a part tab (https://www.delcoremy.com/find-a-part ). I put in the part number for my vacuum advance and it stated that Part # 1116041 had been superseded by Part # 1116057 and that Part # 1116057 had been superseded by 1116145.

I ordered the part that I found in the original post. I will let y'all know if it is interchangeable.

Good Luck

There are holes in the frame, a large one the the shoulder of the thick rubber would sit in, which is what made me think there had been rubber cushions there previously. There were cushions at #2 inner still, without bolts when I took things apart. I figured because these were closer to the front where the body is mounted rather solidly to the frame they didn't have a chance to fall out. #3 and #4 inners had no cushions, which I assumed were there at some point, but with just that shoulder sitting in the hole in the frame to hold them in place they had fallen out at some point.

What confused me, and still does, is when I look through the parts book there are thick and thin cushions listed for inner 2, 3 & 4 for my Cavalier, and even nuts are listed for these positions. But if you look for bolts for these same positions there are none listed for the sedans, only the Mayfair, the Caribbean and the convertible coupe, which is what caused all my confusion initially when I was trying to figure out what parts I needed before I pulled everything apart. These three models also have position 4 1/2 for additional support.

So after all of this, my conclusion is sedans do not require inners 2, 3 & 4 to be bolted. My plan is to put cushions, and no bolts, at inner 2, which did have cushions when I took things apart. I will also add cushions only to inner #3 and #4 because I don't think it can hurt anything to provide a little more support in this area, rather than outriggers #3 and #4 carrying all the weight of the center of the body. At least that's my plan today, might change by tomorrow!

RH what are these bushings for?

I believe the stock 37 one direction heater motor would have 2 wires, one for ground and one for power. Defroster would have a separate motor with the same wiring. I don't think the heaters with the combination heat/defrost controlled by a reversible motor was available in 37 but those motors had 4 wires and used a 5 position switch with 4 terminals.

While the heater install on the last page of this service letter is of a later heater I believe the wiring suggestion might the same or at least very similar in 37s.

I don't recall mine having a ground. One was for the heater blower and the other for the defroster blower which I believe was an option that your car might not have.

Approximately how large is that flat bladed tool?

You don't want them too soft. There is an old post -- maybe 4 or 5 years ago -- by Owen_Dyneto where he was having issues with those same bushings. His issue was with some from Steele that did not last very long. He compared hardness of Steele's to a NOS factory bushing and found the factory bushing to be much harder. He published the results and way he measured using a method he was able to come up with. It was not really precise by usual methods and standards but did give a comparable result so he posted his findings. You might search and see if you can find his info. Maybe you could use his method to test your new bushings.

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Thank you, Howard, for those wonderful tips! I think for now it's a bit much at this time on the cold floor so will wait for the lift although I am really curious so we'll see how much time I have here.

Enduro soft.

Might be more what Packard used.

Have to wait and these to Ross . See what ones better.

Shore 80 or soft.

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