Thanks guys! One more thing added to the knowledge base.

There should only be one wire on the regulator BAT terminal and that goes to the ammeter. There is a ground wire (44) from the regulator to the headlight junction block where it joins a ground wire (23) coming from the generator case. That ground is needed to provide a solid direct ground reference to the regulator so regulator knows exactly what the generator is outputting without the voltage being possibly dropped or changed due to poor connections between sheetmetal or generator to block to body mounting issues. Some regulators have a special ground terminal where it connects and other regulators just have it go to one of the regulator to body mounting screws. On your lower photo it is shown going to a ground terminal on the regulator but in the upper colored photo the terminal is not marked or made clear.

I don't know which colored drawing you are working with but on your photo the black wire I see connecting with the red wire at the regulator ARM terminal is found only on the 356 engine with the large solenoid pinion shift starter. If that colored drawing you have is for the 160-180 models there will be some differences and some wiring shown that your 110 does not have.

Don't know if you have seen the AEA drawings which are much easier to follow wire by wire so here is one for the 41 110. As you notice there is only the one wire at the BAT terminal on the regulator and the second wire at the ARM terminal is not present in the 110. You will also see the two black ground wires between generator and regulator joining at the headlight junction block. At the regulator it is shown as just going to the case so it could be either a mounting screw or an unmarked ground terminal.

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On my 54, the casting date was stamped on the passenger side, towards the back, just above the oil pan.

But it is the engine serial number that determines the model year of your motor.

A '53 is built on a 250 chassis and was not considered a senior car until '54 when it got the senior motor.

But the parts manual should tell the tale.

They are the cast number, which often look like part numbers, but are not.

Have you tried a slotted screw starter? They work very well
Available at Grainger , NAPA & Amazon

SUPER-GLUE screw to screwdriver

The wire in question is number 44 on the old diagram

Doing well so far on the re-wire…I’m stuck on one picture in the diagrams…the older Packard diagram shows a wire from the voltage regulator battery terminal running to the headlight junction block where it mixes with what appears to be a ground from the generator…the new diagram shows that same wire running into the side of the voltage regulator NOT to battery terminal of voltage regulator. I believe that the wire in question gets grounded to the voltage regulator somehow? Maybe one of the mounting screws? Or does it really connect to the batt terminal of regulator…I can’t see that being correct but that’s what I am seeing..I attached photos of the two diagrams…thanks!!

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I just finished installing slot screws to reassemble the gauges in the dash. It is tight and very difficult to start screws into their appointed holes. A magnetic screwdriver helps, but they still slip and fall off before the thread can start, leading to many adult words.
I found using some chassis grease on the screw's slot helps it stay attached to the screwdriver and stabilizes it enough to stick and stay until you can get the 1st few turns initiated.
Hope this helps others,
Bob J.