Thanks.No it was not easy

One other possibility might be the contacts arced or burned. Best case scenario is they burned and oxidized and can no longer conduct or possibly the gap changed enough the contacts lost the ability to close. The worst case option is they arced and welded closed and the electromagnet coil then burned open.

To make sound, the contacts must be closed when power is first applied. The diaphragm will move and immediately open the contacts and the cycle rapidly repeats as long as there is voltage present. The gap determines frequency along with volume and if the contacts cannot provide power to the electromagnet the horn will be silent.

I don't know which model horn is in your car but they all work the same way, just have different layouts of contacts and adjustment methods. You should be able to identify and check the contacts by following what part of the unit is connected to the wire terminal. Here is a bit from the prewar service manual showing a typical horn and adjustments.

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I think the horns have a set of points that could be burned or stuck. It might be worth a look. Burned points might test the same as an open coil, but could probably be made operable by filing or sanding. Stuck points could be freed and filed/sanded. Stuck points might lead to a burned out coil. (Or maybe not)

Yes, cars die of boredom!

I removed mine similar to removing the tie rod ends. By using a gear puller to load tension on the link end I then used a dolly on one side of the shock arm and struck the other side with a ball peen hammer. This causes the hole in the shock arm to deform for an instant and release the morse taper fit.
In your case the link end is without a purchase point to attach a puller, so you may be able to substitute a set of vise grips to allow the puller to exert the tension, or the general manager (wife) could place a pry bar on the vise grips instead of a puller. Either way, the striking of the hammer blow will release the pins grip.
Good luck!
Bob J.

I would imagine either the electromagnet is burned up or the diaphragm is toast.

Disconnect both horns and measure with an ohmmeter between the horn wire and the horn ground (be sure you have a good connection as you will either be touching paint or 90 years of corrosion/patina). If both horns have the same ohm reading, then probably the diaphragm is bad. I would expect if the electromagnet is burnt up then the bad horn will either read infinite or much higher resistance than the good one.

This will at least give you a start on what is wrong with it.

On my 1932 they were tapered. I used a small gear puller.

This shock is here at home for quicker shipping but getting ready to take it up to my Oregon shop. Now would be a good time to buy it if you're in need of one as I'm heading up next week and will probably be bringing it along!

I am trying to remove the shock links, but they seem to be "stuck" in the arm extension from the Shock Absorber. they do not look to be threaded, based on the new ones, but not sure if they are tapered? You can see from the picture the rod on the shock link is off, thus the need for the replacement. I don't want to force the removal and break something inadvertently. Any suggestion or advice would be much appreciated.

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Looking good! It appears that you even managed to get the original 359's aluminum head which are hard to find. Be careful of over-boring a 359 as it was already over-bored from a 327 and the thin walls is probably why they tend to crack.