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What you describe means it is possible you have the wires on the fuel gauge backwards? Worth a try to flip the wires and flip on the ignition.
BTW, it is looking fantastic!!
Bob J.

I have a question for the group….

Later in the summer, I want to get the front coil springs replaced. First, with my car being a 138CD, it uses a little heavier spring than the 120s. I have found two places where I can get the correct springs.

One is Kanter, the other is A1 Shock Absorber Co. Kanter is significantly less expensive. I know Kanter gets good reviews on a lot of things, but I’ve also heard a lot of concerns regarding other parts.

So, with that in mind, I’d like to hear everyone’s thoughts on the coil springs. Any concerns with quality from Kanter. The price with Kanter is just over $400 for the pair. A1 is just under $600 for the pair.

I would also like to replace the rear leaf springs. The only place I have found so far for those is Eaton Detroit Springs. They said they have the specs for the 138CD.

I just installed a freshly rebuilt fuel pump on my '49 with a 288. It was pumping out 5-6 psi. Took it for a drive and it stalled out after a bit (still trying to determine why - been chasing it), so I installed an inline regulator and dialed it back to 3-3.5 psi and drove it again. Same problem. Frustrating!

Monday, I am going to set up a direct feed to the pump from a clean can of gas, get it running, and try again. If the problem goes away, it MUST be somewhere in the pickup tube in the tank or in the long steel back-to-front fuel line.

I got the block flushed out today. It took a little bit and pushing water from both directions, but I think I got it cleaned out well. The drain cock at the back of the block was plugged up and I had to blow some air through it.

Next up is to install the “new” water distribution tube when it arrives and re-install the water pump.

After that, I’ll tackle the timing chain and put everything back together.

I actually checked my mechanical pump pressure on my 23rd series 327 yesterday. Held steady at almost four psi at around 750 rpm.

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Way to go, Ben. Blanche looks great!

Mine does this as well, thankfully just oil. I THINK that breather is supposed to have some sort of filter media. I know mine doesn't have anything in there, so I can usually see a little spritz of oil occasionally when I'm working on that side of the engine. Doesn't seem to bother anything. Just occasionally wiping down the heat shield and pump.

If the governor switch is dirty, or the lockout switch, the relay will receive no signal telling the overdrive to operate. You can check the rest of the overdrive by patching a wire onto the relay at the same terminal you used to test it previously. Bring that wire inside the car and go for a drive. When you reach 25 or so ground that wire on some convenient screw or door handle and the car should go into OD when you let off the gas.

If you are looking for a complete gauge assy to use while you find a factory 41 gauge I was able to get a no name inexpensive unit off ebay that came with adapters, one of which fit the 47 356 head. As I recall that head port has a 5/8 thread and I think it is 5/8-18 but been too many years so won't swear to that. Dorman has several relatively inexpensive gauge kits that come with adapters and one of those might fit. Lighted gauges are probably 12v LED so that might be an issue if you wanted a backlighted gauge. If the port is open waiting for a sender you might confirm your port thread size by picking up a 5/8 bolt and see if it threads in.




Alternately, Amazon also has adapter only kits that might have what you need but sometimes a brand X sensor has proprietary threads which might not fit a brand Z adapter.




Amazon also sells AutoMeter individual size adapters but while the given specs at Amazon are full of useless info such as weight and box dimensions, actual thread sizes don't seem to be given so if buying one of those you would need to visit the AutoMeter site and see if you can find thread specs by part number.

Thanks, I'll check there again now that I have the Autolite number.