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Considering that the units can be adjusted satisfactorily with Type F, I'm not sure what benefit there would be with something more expensive. The main thing that would help past that is viscosity or film thickness modifiers that would work at high temperatures to boost the film thickness in the bushings and washers. But again, mainly a concern at high temperatures from aggressive acceleration.

I had the same problem with my car. First thing is put a trolley jack under the diff, if it still leans then it is the front springs. Then move the jack under the center of the front crossmember. If it leans, then the issue is rear springs. If so, have a good look for a broken leaf. If it is the front, take the springs out and see if they are the same height. All I had to do was swap sides of the front coils. Please let us know what you find. Gary

I'm beginning to wonder if the switch was somehow put together incorrectly when it was repaired. In fact, this was the second from the dealer as the first rebuilt one had apparently not been tested and didn't work at all. On this one, I can't see that the key can possibly come out in any other position unless the contact plate below is wrong. The Acc position is where the tumblers line up with the grooves in the housing so that's the only position where they can move to let out the key.

1951 400. Original green paint with some primer showing through. Interior appears original and seems to be overall in great condition, with some water damage near the rear window corners. From the LeMay collection. I think this one came out the sale they had a couple years ago. Doesn't look like it would take much to really make this car nice. $6,200.
https://www.facebook.com/share/19YC7C8hDx/

1949 Club Sedan (I think it's a 48). Original black paint in worn condition, but may polish up. Interior is in surprisingly good condition. Assuming it is all original. Missing ignition on the dash. Engine shows some recent work with new freeze plugs. "Runs and drives". Hood is off the car, but apparently available. Very dusty from sitting in the desert, and looks like it got rained on. I don't love that the hood wasn't on it. New Coker tires. Looks like a really good project. Part of me really wants to get this. $7,000.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1F2taHCAZJ/

Whew, found them.
Springs for rear bumper.

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I would just close it. As it's not going through the radiator anyway, I doubt it would do anything to the rear block cooling and the coolant being bypassed would be of better use in actual cooling system.

Ok, I was thinking about that also, I have the heater shut off valve wide open as seen in the picture, I think 2-3 turns open would be fine? I'm thinking this is a good idea to get more coolant to the rear 2 cylinders as I've been told they don't get enough flow back there? I did install a new water distribution tube, maybe I'm just over thinking again!

If you connect the ports together in a closed loop then I would suggest you use the shut off valve to restrict the flow quite a bit or use some other restriction. If wide open with a large flow thru the short loop a considerable amount of coolant will never completely circulate thru the engine and will bypass the radiator which could lead to overheating.

My heater core on my 37 "120" is "shot" and beyond repair. I'm not going to replace the heater core and several people mentioned to just connect the fitting at the water pump to the heater shut off valve between #7 and #8 cylinder. I would think this would improve flow at the back of the engine? Wanted to get other opinions on this or should I just install a couple pipe plugs and seal it up?

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Just one picture for today. The dash is going back together and looks awesome. The glove box door will go on later. It is currently getting the inside painted the dark brown.