I took every bit of wiring out of my 54 and replaced it. Even though it was plastic-covered wiring, there were still places where the insulation was cracking off. Not to mention the damage that rats caused to the original harness. Also, there are areas of the body where parts of the harness go over sharp regions of the body unprotected, which can abrade the insulation over time. The worst area I saw was where the rear feed harness comes up the A-Pillar and across the roof. That is a sharp area at the top of the pillar where it makes that hard turn. I covered the harness in that plastic split loom tubing in just that area just to give it some extra protection. A short there near old headliner material would not be a good thing.

Awesome, thanks! Maybe I'll see if I can do it while in the car so I won't have to pull all the tubing back through firewall. I know it's off as I can hit the back side of the sender with a laser thermo when the engine is warmed up and it reads about 170, While the gauge only gets to the first quarter position line.

Evaporust now has a product that is specific to flushing radiators and engine blocks.

I'll be curious if Steele ever updated their molds to include the space for the ridges on the bottom. The ones I have from Metro are molded with the recesses in the bottom for the ridges.

The seating position in my car has always been a challenge. As in, I don't understand how shorter folks could have driven it in the past. It could be a combination of altered '38 split business coupe seats in the car paired with the original '37 seat tracks. Also, it has a lot of recline, so I can't even see the fenders while driving, and I'm 6'4". However, some of the Service Counselors/Letters have noted several instances of adjusting the seat height and position using a wooden spacer wedge.

So, I made 1" hardwood spacer blocks under the rear of the tracks. This dramatically changed the recline angle to something way more standard/comfortable. But this left a large gap between the back of the seat and the plywood package shelf and bulkhead when the seat was all the way back. So, I moved the tracks back several inches and drilled new holes through the floor. The existing holes were not original as the floor was replaced in the recent past, and when it was done, someone used the woodworking threaded inserts into the wood floor to accept the seat track bolts. I used longer bolts, which were needed anyway in the rear due to the spacer blocks, and went all the way through the floor. Then I could use large, thick grade 8 fender washers on the underside, which, to me, is infinitely better than those aluminum threaded inserts.

Now, I have more legroom and can see the fenders while driving. My wife no longer has to sit on a pile of pillows to see over the dash while driving.

Please share the calibration and cleaning steps as I am pretty sure mine is off 30-40 degrees. Thanks!

Yes, the rubber covering was standard. The ridges are there as the rubber was vulcanizing over the metal in a mold. So not a separate cover that was glue down. Also the ridges make running boards stronger.

Your exhaust routing looks good to me.

B-Pillars are finally sorted, and the weatherstrip was installed:

I found these on Amazon. 2-1/2 OD 1/2 ID. Probably too big.

https://amzn.to/43Rq5a4

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Great to here it made it safely!