Yes a good presentation. However have a question and not sure you can answer it. Without going through of getting #1 cylinder on TDC and checking timing mark and setting distributor in the right position etc. I am wondering if the plug wires could be in the right firing order but in the perhaps the wrong holes in the distributor cap. If this would be the case, could the engine still run if set on the timing marks? It would be of course either much to early or too late as indicated on my vacuum gauge. But could it be on the right timing marks and still run? I guess that is my question without checking out #1 cyl TDC and timing mark and position of the rotor firing on #1 cylinder. Yes I am a little rusty as everyone else, but hope there is someone out there who is up on this stuff.

Been quite a while since I have been into a Packard engine. I am having carburetor problems. Engine dies when I try to give it a hard throttle. Rebuilt the carb and still the same problem. Checked everything. Replaced the points and check the timing. The timing was advanced to where the timing mark wasn't even visible. Set the timing where it is suppose to be,
The vacuum gauge only measures 15 at idle and states above the mark "Late Timing". Now since we have retarded the timing from before, I am wondering why it was set at a more advanced timing? The engine has been overhauled and taken apart. Does this engine have a timing chain or is it fastened securely to the crankshaft where the timing mark cannot get off. Unless someone replace the vibration damper with a different one, but I would doubt that. Can I put a compression gauge on #1 cylinder to see if the timing mark matches TDC when there is max compression? The service manual does not give an easy way to check this. Hope you can help. Lee

My '42 is not running properly. I have installed a new carb kit but still have the same problem with when I step on the gas pedal hard the engine will just die. Is this normal? Trying to find out more of what is going on, I put a tach on it and I find that rather than the pointer relatively stable, it is bouncing around! Thus thought I would install new points. No change for anything I have done thus far! Nobody wants these days to work on an old auto like mine. Thus I am trying to troubleshoot myself. I am wondering what perhaps is causing the tach to fluctuate so much. And ides from you experts?? Lee

Appreciate your message & knowledge. You say my vacuum @ 500rpm is low. What could cause this? Could timing cause it? I still have not checked the timing because not sure what criteria to use. If I check the timing @ 500rpm what mark on the balancer should it be on? One source I looked at, states 4 marks before TDC. Isn't that kind of retarded when most more modern engines are more advanced before TDC?

I notice that when I increase the idling to around 800 or 1000, the tack pointer really jumps around. Is that normal? I believe it is because the high speed part of the carb is trying to cut in, but it sure isn't doing it very evenly. What could be the cause of this or is this normal? The tach is steady when I reduce down to 500rpm.
Lee

Tune-up data is kind of hard to find for this year & model.
I did find this info in the SHOP MANUAL but it is confusing to me. Perhaps one of you tune-up specialists can enlighten me.
Here under distributor is what it states:
VACUUM ADVANCE:
Start 0 deg at 7"
Intermediate 1 deg at 8 5/8"
3 deg at 12"
4 deg at 13 1/2"
Full Advance 5.5 at 16"

What does this mean?? At idle I get approx 14 to 15" of Hg at around 500rpm. Normal?
Anyway I thought when you rev the engine the vacuum would go up appreciably. But when reving the engine it maybe goes up to 17" but not an appreciable amount. Is that normal for this engine? I think in more modern engines they are talking about vacuum in the 30" Hg range.
On most engine tuneups they usually tell you to disconnect the vacuum before timing. All I found thus far, was to set the timing 4 notches before TDC. That is not much advance is it?
I could find no data that states to disconnect the vacuum advance nor at which speed to check the timing. All confusing.
Any advice or help at all would be appreciated. Thanks.

I have a perfectly good carburetor that is missing a part. It is Carter's part #61-199. It is called the Vacuum Piston Spring. It fits inside the metering rod piston. This part is the same in the 531, 643S, 644, etc carburetor which is used in Packards from about 1941 to 1950 If anyone has a carb that perhaps is missing other parts or not functional, I wonder if you could part with this item. Willing to pay your price. If you do not have, do you have any suggestions of where I might locate this spring? They are rather important and one cannot just replace it with just any spring.
Just Me/Lee

My auto has been setting for a while and now the carburetor is not working normally. Seems to be running very lean and does not want to continue running etc.. There is the standard 531 carb on it. I do have a spare 643S carb which fits the '48-60 senior Packards. I was wondering since I am going to have to take the carb apart and perhaps get it to function better, if I should instead clean etc the 643S carb. It appears like it would be completely interchangeable. Can anyone give me any advice of whether it would be wise to install the 634 on it instead of the 531? Would there be any benefit or drawback to changing?
Running it seems, very lean. What to look for especially, when disassembly and cleaning? Helps to pump the accelerator, to get started.

Need to troubleshoot my instrument fuel gauge mainly and need to remove the headlight switch to get better access. Question: What is the secret for removing the headlight switch? I have had it removed once before back in 2017, but idiot me, did not document it! Now I again cannot see a way to remove but I know there must be a way. How is the plunger removed so that the switch trim screw can be completely removed and the switch pulled out through the back? STUMPED!
Lee

I have had the vent window out for quite some time trying to replace the rubber moulding. My auto is a Model 1591-2050 Chassis 2055 which has the large rear vent window. Finally had to piece two pieces together from a '41 to get a suitable one. In the process, I lost the top pivot piece that holds the top of the window in place. At a loss of what it looks like and wondering if anyone can help me out to find one or make one. Not sure how it attaches to outside moulding frame as there are just three holes. I think it must be kind of a small bracket with a center screw which screws into the vent window frame and then perhaps has two prongs which hold it in place on the main moulding frame. I am just guessing at this point. Sure could use your help!!
Lee Noga tel # (509)967-2723

I have two 1948 Henney Hearse's I would like to sell. They were both running in the past but have not been run for quite a while. But sure I could get them running again without too much trouble. I have tried to find perhaps a selling price for each but have not had much luck finding hearse prices anywhere. Can anyone give me any idea of what I should perhaps ask? They are in kind of a special category thus a little difficult to price. Because of this, not sure if that would lower the price or perhaps make them a little more valuable? Not everyone wants to own a hearse no doubt. I know the engines alone are hard to come by, and they alone would perhaps govern the price.
Lee Noga