True - I was talking about the upper portion of the cap. If it is the lower portion of the cap, then spray that area with a lubricant several times over several hours. With a single edge razor blade gently try to insert it between the metal and plastic portion working around the entire circumference. Try GENTLY TAPPING the razor blade. Probably best the remove the distributor.

On the off chance the plastic part(s) break, it may be repairable using PC7 (a 2 part epoxy that takes a day to cure). I used it to repair the top portion of one I had. I'm holding it as a backup for my current one. Wet both surfaces with the minimum of the mixed epoxy and clamp them together allowing the PC-7 to cure overnight.

GOOD LUCK

Since no one has replied, I'm guessing there is no great answer. The two should just come apart.

Since you are going to replace the wires, here's what I would try. I'd cut all 9 wires to remove the top with the lower part of the cap. Turn it upside down and soak them in paint thinner (which should not hurt the Bakelite) overnight. Then gently try removing the cap from the body. You could softly tap it, but remember it is very brittle and it would not hurt to have a backup all lined up.

GOOD LUCK

Before doing the above try squirting a spray lubricant along the side of the screw on top and let it sit for several hours

If the hinge pins were incorrect the holes in the hinge body are probably out of round. You may want to consider reaming them oversize and turning new pins for them. You can get reamers at McMaster-Carr for ~$30. I would probably make the pins out of 544 bearing bronze which won't rust and is easy to machine.

Strip all the paint off with paint remover. Then take it to a shop that does chrome plating and have them strip the plating off. If the rust and pitting is bad, you should be able use body filler and high solids primer to make it paintable. A lot of hours to do, but not a difficult job.

Looking at the condition of the carpet and panel that is showing in your photos, the interior has been redone. The type of connector is probably is one that pushes into the wood frame and is either made of steel (older restoration) or plastic (newer restore).

You should be able to slip a thin narrow putty knife between the frame and the door panel and move it up and down to locate them. Use one of the plastic trim removal tools made for the task. Make sure the tool slot straddles the connector. Be gentle prying the panel away. If you are not sure go to a auto upholstery shop and have them remove the panel,

To see if it is signal strength or another issue with the Wonderbar tuned pick a strong AM station and set one of the buttons to that station. Then give it a go.

I had the radio in my '51 serviced a few years back. The shop's owner worked and worked on it and never could figure out why the auto tune function wouldn't work.

Good Luck.

Kevin thanks for the post as it proves that a picture is worth a thousand words.

I'll be taking Flack's approach and see what happens with a new, generic 6 volt coil.

"Surgery" was mentioned on replacing the wire inside the shielded cable. Briefly what does that involve. I have about 10 ft. of 12 gauge shield wire on hand. Do all I need to do is add connectors at each end?

I think the coil on a 120B, which is currently installed on the engine block, is over heating and cutting out. Were there 120Bs where the coil was installed on the firewall? If so, does someone out there know where it was placed (a picture would be nice)?

The Aurora kit that was installed in the car's original radio (OR) requires a negative ground. The kit replaces most of the internals in the OR. The front remains the same and the Wonderbar tuner is there and still functions.

This way the car has AM/FM, Bluetooth and can function as a "Hands Free" radio when your phone is connected to the radio.