Craig thank you for your service. I graduated with a B.S. in Chemistry minor in Physics. Worked as an Analytical Chemist developing analytical methods for fuels and later managing several labs for Rocketdyne. In my early life a lot of time was committed to the Apollo Program supporting main engine programs for all stages and the lunar ascent engine.

Retired in 2005 after 39 years. I still provide some support to the test site where I worked as a contract labor person in the cleanup of a 2800 acre facility located 40 NW of Los Angeles.

The wife and I attended a Shuttle launch as A NASA honoree in 2003. We had breakfast under a Saturn 5 Rocket (all 360 feet)following the launch.

Well Craig taking a little liberty to stray off point and also being a "rocket scientist" (fuels and propellants for rocket engines with Rocketdyne 40+ years), what was your area of endeavor in the field?

On a trip in our RV last year, the wife and I came across a bug infestation outside of Raymond Mississippi. there was a house sitting on about 3 acres. Scattered over the property there had to have been 30+ Beatles in various stages rust formation.

While this type of car may not correct for this Packard site, it demonstrates the degree to which man will go to collect things Automotive.

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I had problems finding a shop in my area that could make me a drive shaft (DS) for my 901. They could not fine a 6 bolt flange to bolt onto the rear end/transmission or balance the DS.

I did find one that could do it, but they would need to make rig to hold the DS so they could balance - all it took was $$$$. I'm having one made now by Driveshaft Specialist in San Antonio.

Ive got my fingers crossed and still waiting for the DS.

Oops - I was eating dinner and the light bulb went off. It is the part on the seat frame that turns and not the rod. After some WD-40 and a little coaxing on the part on the seat frame all is well.

David,

Thanks for the heads up I see that Classic & Exotic have a nut. The nut I have has 28 threads per inch (TPI) and the gauge is 27 TPI. I think the 27 TPI is a 1/16" NPT. For the $38.75 plus shipping that C&E is asking for their nut, I think I'll make one as I'm guessing it should take less than a 1/2 an hour. ?

I'm working on the front seats on my '32 901 and I have a question about he adjusting rod that is used on the driver's seat. It would appear that the smaller part that protrudes at the rear of the shaft (arrow) must be a removal pin that allows the main shaft to rod for adjusting.

I've tried removing it using liquid wrench and heat, but to no avail. I thought that before using brute force on it, that I would post this question. Also, in case I end up needing to drill it out does anyone know how far it goes into the main shaft?

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NEAtT- thanks for sharing. I like the scene at 1.30 minutes when the truck makes a left turn across on coming traffic and the car doesn't slow down, but swerves to avoid a crash.

It reminds me of driving in Italy several years except there where more cars in Rome.

Dave,

I talked to Chris last week. He turned me on to several sources - they either did not had one or did not respond. I'll go with the repaired one and keep my eyes open for another one.

While we are discussing my Packard challenges I got ready to connect the small line from the gas tank to the gas gauge and ran into a problem. The compression nut that came with the kit has 5/16" with 24 threads per inch while the gauge appears to be 27 threads per inch. Any ideas on what gives?

The rear section of drive shaft that I got from Dave looked pretty sound, but I could not find anyone in the Los Angeles/Ventura area that could weld and balance it. This was because they did not have anything that would match up with the 6 bolt Packard flange without out making an adapter. I did find a shop that would do it for "$500 or so". Therefore, I decided to go with a completely new DS which is going to be made by Driveshaft Specialist in San Antonio for $625. It should be done in a week or so.

I finished most of the work on the dash. The instrument clustered was installed and some of the bright work that I had already had plated. The map light is now out for plating. I was unable to locate all of the correct push/pull switches for the dash and have ordered new ones. Although they are different, they'll be behind the dash and out of sight. I'll make knobs for them so they look correct.

All of the floor boards have been installed and fitted. The bottom of the front seat was cleaned up and painted with a semi-flat black paint. I'll be sending the metal frame for the driver's seat, the back of the front seat and other pieces out for media blasting the remove the rust on them.

I've ordered additional cloth wire so I can finish off the electrical under the dash, the rear seat cigar lighters, and the dome light.

I've tried to find the left rear tail light stanchion as the top on mine that holds the license plate had broken off. Therefore, I made an attempt to repair mine by:

1. Forming a new top out of brass
2. 2. Attaching a threaded .25" rod to the base to strengthen the brass piece by drilling and tapping the base & brazing the rod to the brass top piece
3. Welding the threaded rod and brass to the base with Muggy Weld's Super Alloy 1.

I'll be sending it out for plating. I don't think the fix will be as strong as the original so I'll keep my fingers crossed that it does not come apart at the plater's.

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