As you may recall, Howard, I obsessed over the process.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=5878&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=230

I have the basic kit, but I only need one pattern for my car. It looks like you have two patterns, so there's another $100, plus "inks."

The big kit is maybe overkill, however, the smaller extra roller helps to maintain pattern continuity in hard to get places, crevices, lips, that the big roller skips. But you can buy one separately.

The process is very forgiving. The base coat is permanent, but the grain is water-based. If you don't like the grain you rolled on, you can wipe it off with a damp cloth and make another pass at that segment with the roller.

If I were going into business or knew I would be doing other cars in the future, I'd get the big kit. I was unsure about my ability to do it and if it would look good enough, so I stuck with the basic kit.

Ah yes, I remember it well.
The rolled-roast steering gear.

RADIO ESCUTCHEON: Wouldn't you know it. I think I've located one. I'd rather chrome a whole one than a broken one. We'll see about availability and price.

SWAY BAR / ROLL CONTROL: This is supposed to be part of the Suspension. But for the life of me, I can't find a listing for a sway bar or roll control bar in the 1935-1941 Parts Manual that's online. I'm going to check the paper version when I get home.

Mine looked like this. It "disappeared" in a couple 3 years ago. I bought a kit to repair it, but can't find the thing itself. I'd like to check the numbers to see if it fits on any other models.

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RADIO ESCUTCHEON: I've been checking vintage radio places and have not come up with this piece. A temporary solution hit me. Fasten the left larger side of the plate normally, with the knob nuts. Leave the other smaller piece on the right side unattached to it, and just glue it in place with 3M artist's adhesive (non permanent, but very strong) to the plastic.

It looks good enough, that if I have it re-chromed in 2 pieces, I think it would look about as good as new.

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LEAF SPRINGS That's a good suggestion, JW. I'll take it back and ask the mechanic to point out the crack, which I couldn't find.

Once in the 70s, a spring or holder broke. It came down on the brake cable as I was going down a steep hill in my neighborhood. There I sat, with the hand brake forced on by the spring, and my foot on the brake, waiting for the tow truck, which had to call for a bigger back-up truck to lift the Duchess from the rear and pull it uphill. It was a little touch and go.

I had the suspension checked and updated with suspension kits 7 years ago as one of the first steps in restoration which included "rear spring eye and shackle bushings.

Does a special shop have to remove the springs? Do you need special equipment? If I could tackle that, I could take the springs to Oregon Auto Spring for refurbishing and re-install them.

RADIO ESCUTCHEON: I took it to this place:
http://www.adxportland.com/services/3d-printing-2/

They are innovative and they are thinking about it. The piece is a bit complicated if reproduced exactly. Photos show it is not flat at all. It was cast originally and plated. To machine a duplicate requires a fair amount of work. It has to be drawn to spec. I has to be made out of a thicker piece of metal. The beveled windows for the dial especially with those two pointers and the station identifier window, beveled in... requires hand work too.

I'm going to start searching for a replacement. Short of that, maybe a flat backing plate could hold it together. It would stick out a tiny bit more, but a backing plate wouldn't require any fancy machining. Just square and round holes.

Use it until I can locate a new one.

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BROKEN LEAF SPRING: Stopped in at Oregon Auto Spring in Portland. They said You remove spring. We will duplicate for around $100+. You re-install spring. I'll post a picture tonight.

This has to be done at a shop?

EDIT...I guess I don't know where to look. There is a separation on the front side, but the description was "left rear leaf spring has a crack"

RADIO ESCUTCHEON Unless I can find one that's not broken and have it replated, I'll have to have one machined. It looks simple, but it's not. 3D printing leaves a very rough surface, not suitable for chrome.

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Jim

Check the paragraph on GRILLE on Posts# 87 and 88 on the following Duchess Project link:

The plater was happy to take them apart.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=5878&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=80

Joe

Davneto,

I overcame my chicken fears and unscrewed the fuel level plug with the car idling. No gas came out, but I could see it dancing alongside the float. Very cool. So I'm going to leave things as they are. I did another fluff test up the longest, steepest hill here, 150th, and solid all the way, and easy in 3rd gear.

I might do it again just for the thrill and take a photo this time. Thanks.

The tag was metal number stamped at the factory. The rest of the info was added by the dealer later.

On mine, from Earle C. Anthony in San Francisco, it was rubber stamped in those areas. The ink can rub off, but maybe if you could figure out the original dealer from here
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/dealer/

and you know the car was sold in 1941 or 1942, you can use a lupe or very strong magnifying glass and see if you can detect any letter forms.

Perhaps some dealers didn't bother to stamp them.

O, I see, David is giving you the same basic info.