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Board index » All Posts (kbess1107)




Undercoating experiences?
#21
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bob E.
I have the front clip off of my '55 and I am cleaning up rust, holes etc before I put it back on and lose easy access. In my wire brushing (with angle grinder), some of the undercoating in the wheel wells and other areas has come off.

Does anyone have any positive experience with a particular undercoating product I should use to replace? I see products out there from Rustoleum, Eastwood,and others as well as lots of warnings about undercoating retaining moisture and causing rust, etc. It seems like a rubberized product would help in noise deadening vs a harder truck bed liner product but by now I am sure that people have tried a bunch of options.

thanks

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Posted on: 2020/5/6 19:21
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


Re: Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Spring
#22
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Bob E.
Still futzing with this $&#* spring. When the engine is running it bounces between partially open and closed making the engine erratic, of course.

The spring is from Max, wondering if it is not getting enough heat transfer from the shaft of the valve. I have the radiator out now as I work on the cleaning up the front clip to soon reunite with the rest. SO I can't try out any options but clearance to this valve will never be better so want to get your opinions to take my best shot at it. I all can think of is to better crimp the shaft around the spring tang to get more heat transfer, but wondering if anyone else has had challenges getting these to work? Seems like it should be easy, assuming I got the right spring from Max.

Any suggestions?

thx

Posted on: 2020/4/20 21:43
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


Re: Front Stabilizer Bar End bushing orientation
#23
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Bob E.
Having not heard any response on this, I decided to press on.

I slid the narrow end of the bushing in the channel of the lower control arm. With both sides in, I used a C-clamp to compress the very tips of the bar in as much as possible to compress the rubber bushing. Then used another C-clamp to squeeze in the clip. Once the two top 'teeth' of the clip touched the control arm, I used a little screwdriver to pop the teeth up and with a few more turns of the C-clamp, they popped right into their slots.

I've been dreading this task for a while, but it turns out it was very straightforward. This technique is different than what is in the SC but worked well. It is attributed to Ross and I read about it in info that Dwight Heinmuller sent me (attributing Ross) when I bought his new rear bushings. Very handy and THANK YOU to both.

Just wanted to close out this post with a positive account.

thx

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Posted on: 2020/3/29 20:38
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


Front Stabilizer Bar End bushing orientation
#24
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Bob E.
Gents,
I am at the point of trying to reinstall the front stab bar with new bushings from Max/Steele. I've read as many posts as I can regarding creating a version of the official tool and directions from Heinmuller/Ross.

I think I am going to try the Heinmuller/Ross approach which is to use vise grips to squeeze the bar in as far as possible, then a C-clamp horizontally to compress the clip while using a small screwdriver to lift the top tabs over the top of the lower control arm and into the slots.

Just to be sure I am chosing the proper pain, what is the right orientation of the end bushings? They are rectangular. So do I put the narrow end in the channel and really, really compress the clip with the C-clamp? Or do I force the wider end into the channel so that less is sticking out to be compressed by the C-clamp?

thanks
Bob

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Posted on: 2020/2/29 17:40
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


Re: Bob's '55 Patrician Blog
#25
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Bob E.
@64avanti: I'm still fussing with that heat riser spring. If you have an alternate number that really works, I'd be grateful.

Been driving it a little more and once it fully warms up it is pretty smooth. There is still a noticeable miss/shudder (idle and at higher rpms) but readjusting the transmission-carb linkage seems to have helped the peppiness a whole lot.

Not driving it for awhile has caused the trans to revert to creeping when in park and strained 'shifts' (i used Drive right). I'm hoping a lot more driving will help it sort itself out.

Posted on: 2020/1/30 23:41
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


Re: Bearing check
#26
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Bob E.
Oil pan re-installed with black RTV at each 'corner'. Started it up and front seal seems to be holding. Some drips from the back down the side of the flywheel cover but will let it play out for a bit. Oddly, had an oil leak from the fuel pump mounting interface. Next step is to replace the modern (~7psi) fuel pump and added regulator with an original carter fuel pump that I sourced from Mike Dulinksi and just had rebuilt by Terrill.

Car started up just fine but miss at idle and higher rpms is apparent again. ALso still fighting with thermal spring for heat riser valve. New one from Max didnt solve it. When it heats up it relaxes a little but then the valve starts bouncing and never fully opens.

Noticed a lot of 'vapor' from the crankcase vent tube. Not sure why there would be so much. Also found that if I remove the oil filler cap the vapor goes away, then returns when I put the cap back on. seems odd.

Here is a video of the vapor

https://youtu.be/yRB7Nfc7xHo

Posted on: 2020/1/10 10:05
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


Bearing check
#27
Home away from home
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Bob E.
Since i had the steering mostly apart to send control valve to Rockauto/Lares, and was pulling the oil pan to try to stop the front/back leaks, I figured I would pull a few bearing caps to see what kind of wear I'm getting.

Recall that when I first put this engine together last Aug '18, I left a paper towel in the engine and it plugged up a lot of the oil pump inlet screen. Oil starvation had to have happened so at that time, I pulled each cap took some pictures,then blew air through etc to ensure no remnants.

As an example, here is a then/now picture of rod bearing cap #2. A few more scratches then before plus and signs of what I would consider contamination. Also some end wear/wipe at the edge of the bearing, which really surprised me.
The scratches across the width don't make sense so wondering if I some how did that while installing/removing the cap.

Also a picture of Main cap #3.

I also sent an oil sample to Blackstone (attached). One of their findings was contamination. To date, I have run all the time with the oil bath filter removed. Having the carb fully accessible has made tuning idle mixture, rpm, and choke so much easier. But now thinking that is where the dust/dirt is coming from that is causing this bearing wear.
Any other thoughts from this sample? It is the first one so will need to see what the trend will be.

Part of me thinks that I should take this opportunity to replace the rod and main bearings with the crank in place and start anew. Doesn't seem that hard from videos (even the manual talks about using a cotter pin to remove/install new main bearing) and at this point doubt the crank journals have had much wear to worry about.
Other part of me thinks I can do that at any time and should put it all together over the holidays so I can drive this thing and get some real miles on it to see how it performs.

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Posted on: 2019/12/17 22:59
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


oil pan gasket comparison
#28
Home away from home
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Bob E.
I dropped my oil pan to try to stop leaks I have at front and at back. (plus checking on journal bearing wear, more on that in a later post). Looks like it leaks (front and back) where the cork end strips meet with the flat side gaskets. Tried some black RTV during assembly at those locations, but get persistent drip.

Thought I would need to replace the gasket so ordered 2 new ones. For my future reference (and maybe it helps someone else), here is a comparison of three oil pan gaskets.

I had 1 from when I ordered a complete engine gasket kit from Max a couple of years ago. It is really thin and seemed too thin so I just ordered another one. You can see the part number of the new, thicker one ends in "s".

I also ordered a Best 24040 gasket from another vendor. It is the compressed, fiber paper variety as compared to the cork type from Max. Here is a picture of the 3 stacked up for comparison. The newest Max one is the thickest (on top), old Max one in the middle, and Best on the bottom (gray)

When I installed the existing gasket, I used Permatex High tack gasket sealant on the block side and nothing on the pan side. The pan came off easily and the gaskets (2 sides, and front and back thick cork) stayed in place on the block.
There is no evidence of any oil leaking on the side gaskets, just where the side gasket & tabs meet the end pieces (and remnants of black RTV). I'm thinking of just leaving the gaskets in place, cleaning out the old RTV, and adding a few more dabs at the corners (and re-checking the pan bolt hole areas for any deformation).

That's about what I did last time and it didn't work great so I don't know why I think I will get a different outcome this time. But it seems like that should work maybe I let the RTV dry too long before assembly. I've looked through many posts on this site and there is variation as to what to do with those side tabs etc.

Hoping I'll get a better result this time since the cork is already in place. I'm planning on adding RTV dabs at the 4 corners, getting the pan bolts just barely snug, letting RTV set for a tad, then torquing to spec.

we will see...

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Posted on: 2019/12/7 18:33
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


Re: Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Spring
#29
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bob E.
Thanks Ross. If that is the case, then the one I have on my car must not be the original. The slit was most definitely not all the way through. But it is now. I took a hacksaw and cut through it to split it.

A new one from Max has only a partial slit, but more interestingly, doesn't have the same spring they sent me (less turns, but maybe it is an old pic).

https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000022e~Z5Z5Z53691~P150.00~~~~S5MS0PH96J73624005551e~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000022E#



I'm going to try mine and see if this works.

thanks

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Posted on: 2019/11/23 19:33
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 


Steering Control valve rebuild
#30
Home away from home
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Bob E.
I bought a kit from Max to rebuild the Bendix control valve assembly. Seemed to go okay, but could never stop it from leaking where the control valve assembly meets the main section. So used RockAuto's rebuild service with Lares. Rockauto received in on a Thursday and shipped it back to me the following Tuesday! You can see they replaced the original metal sleeve seal around the ball stud with one that has a rubber gasket around it. I'll install it soon to see if it works better, but it looks nice. Cost about $225 with tax and shipping.

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Posted on: 2019/11/22 20:37
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
 Top 



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