In addition to the theme rocker arms ... here my way to restore the 1923/4 1th series rocker arms. You can see this terrible worn tread. Nobody could offer new ones ... and before I ordered ones in "good" condition for 50 $ a piece I let them redo the way I know it's the best. The rocker arms go to a company who is specialized in metal plasma spray. They sprayed chrome molybdenum on the tread. I know this special process over 40 years and it's the best way to get a better and harder surface than the new ones were. But there was the question if this both different metal sorts will hold together. The company shows and declared me that this in an examined and certified process sins a long time. The chrome molybdenum plasma is shot with more than 900 yards per second on the sandblast rocker arm surface and will never split from this place. After this procedure the machine shop bring them in into the old size by grinding and polished the new surface in a ? inch radius on an old rocker arm grinding machine.
Karl

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... bay the way, I found out, that my 1924/136 has original a
leather link belt. Has someone experiences with this belts
and can tell me if they works ... or works not ... or better to use an repalacement rubber one ...etc.. I would like to use the original ones and I have found a english company which can deliver this. Karl

Thanks for Information's friends. And .. Dave, can you confirm that the second series has the same size belt like the 1 series? And can someone give me the measurements for this belts. I cant find in the Internet any lists where a NAPA B34-50 is show in details with all measurements and length . If I can have these measurements ... I can find a belt over here in Germany which is very close to the original. I was looking for this on American internet pages but I cant find any information's about that. And if you go with "NAPA B34-50" in the internet .. there is only information's about Napa B34. And I have no idea if this has the measurements I need. Karl

.. thank you guys, but.. Max Merritt dont has any Belts .. and Kanter doesnt answer on two other inquirys I send to them last times. Any other advices ???

... does someone know the right size(lenght and profil) for the Belts of a 1924 Single eight and the 1928 six cylinder.
Maybe a name where I can order this both pieces in original size and look? Thanks in advance. Karl

I would like to know if the Waterpump of the 1930 745 8Zyl. has a higher delivery rate then the pump for the 1924 Single 8 and if there a diffrence between the water guide plate (baffle? ... with that holes in) .. is diffrent than the giude plate of the 1924.

There is never a gap like this between Window Frame and Front Bow. And right, its warped .. because ... it?s wood. I saw this kind of warped wood front bow over the years a couple times.
The reasons are different .. they are made not for 80 years. And sometimes they are not strong enough if they are not made by multiple layer of wood where the woodgrain is glued in different ways. The reason for this kind of gap is the power which pulled by the strong conv.fabric on the top bow. Specially if the bow is fixed only on the outsides of the window frame. Over the years the wood front bow gets wet and dry ... and ... wet and dry and always the fabric is pulling on the front bow. This could be aggravated by a bad work of the Upholsterer ... if he worked not precise enough if he sewing together the middle and outside parts and then he try to pull out the wrinkles over the front bow... so .. an additional power pulls on the front bow because the fabric is to much stretched. And if he used an cheap Fabric material ... the rubber insert will shrink .. like cheap material do it sometimes ... and a lot of power lift over the years the middle of the front bow .. because ..the ends are fixed on the outside of the Window frame. And then the front bow looks like yours. To fix a problem like this is ... to fill up the gap by wood pieces which fit exact into the gap. I use therefore long-time stored ash. Cut it in the right thickness (like the furthest distance of the gap) and glue it on place with PU wood glue (like waterproofed Titebond .. purple bottle). There is a little bit work on it now to bring it on the right shape that it fits without a gap on the window frame but it's the only way to do it right and install the weather sealer on the right place. Hope my lousy English make understanding what I try to explain.
Karl

Dave, thank you for this helpful information's and the picture.
It is as I though.. there is a tin tub into this big
rectangle hole. Its missing ..so I have to build one.
Your answer was fast enough .. because. I?m nearly done now
with the bodywork. I had to change all rotten wood under the
doorsills, .. rebuild the whole floor, .. rebuild the front seat backrest-construction. By the way .. if I have to rebuilt this kind of curved corners ..etc.. I use aircraft plywood (1/16")1,5 mm. It is easy to bent it in shape. If you use additional a steamer tool the wood will stay in curve if you fix it over night. Then glue together (PU Wood glue) so much layers as you need. After you brushed it with inlet (?) wood primer 2 or 3 times and let it dry over night.. it?s strong like concrete. But you can use also Sheetmetal or aluminum sheet. But ask your upholsterer what he think about if he has to nail or staple this kind of areas.

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... somebody know what these holes are for ?
They are not to fix the body on the frame ... because the frame is not on this place ... and they are not for the
fueltank this brakets are on an other place and not fixed on woodparts of the body. And what fills this hole ... is there a tin tub in and how this looks like ?? Dave you posted this greaat pictures from Steve Babinsky's 1-36 Sport .. do you see a chance to get some pics from under need the rear seat ?

Thanks in advance

Karl

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..sorry joe but I dont have any connection to Motorcyle Parts.

In the PDF datei are the question what typ of lens is the right one for my Packard and about the size.

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