That's a 1934 engine, not a 1933 as evidenced by the vertically mounted Purolator L-6 full-flow oil filter (replica) and oil cooler attached to the water jacket side plate. That was a one year only arrangement. 1933 did not have an oil cooler and used a bypass type oil filter.

The theft-proof number on the cowl indicates that the body is also from the 1934 model year production.

Glad it was helpful. Just keep in mind that, as with many things Packard, there can be exceptions.

I've got just 1 extra to spare, from the production run Bill Hirsch had made back in the 70s; chrome on steel for the standard 1933-1936 Eight and Super Eight 17" wire spoke wheel. Plating is presentable but it has a few dings and dents. PM if interested.

Not sure what you mean by "chassis number". Post 1931 Packards with factory coachwork or factory sponsored series-custom coachwork would carry a vehicle number in the format of body type - sequential number, this would be stamped on the patent plate and identified as a vehicle number. Those that had an actual chassis number plus sequential number stamped on the patent plate were cases where the unit of sale by the factory was a chassis minus coachwork sold for completion by a coachbuilder, for example to LeBaron, Dietrich, Brunn, Henney, etc.

If its of any assistance to you, a frame number (not a chassis number) should be found stamped on the frame just above the trunnion block. I believe this practice was discontinued after the 14th Series.

Here's a K-D valve spring compressor, typical of the style appropriate for L-head engines.

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  KD 70 spring compressor 1.jpg (223.14 KB)


  KD spring compressor 2.jpg (214.06 KB)

Very nice work on the valve seats - congrats!

Nothing more than a good quality chassis grease is needed, generally available in tubes to load into a grease gun. Its important of course to adhere to the lubrication interval.

Use of heavy oil for king pin lubrication was an early practice, I believe 1934 might have been the last year Packard recommended it and I continue to lube the king pins on my 1934 with heavy oil, ditto for the universals. When in doubt, follow the shop manual.

That appears to be a vehicle number for a 120 commercial chassis without coachwork as the unit of sale.

Sounds like a great car, how about a picture?

The plate next to the drain plug covers the oil pump inlet and it's protective filter screeen and yes, it should periodically removed and the screen cleaned to insure the oil has unrestricted access to the pump inlet. Chances are you'll need a new gasket, easy enough to make or I'm pretty sure Olson's would have it, the same gasket was used for many years.

Based on my experience with later models of that engine I think you'll find that there is a restriction in the base of the oil filler assembly that would make it difficult to check the oil level by inserting a dip stick into the crankcase. Hopefully someone will have a alternative method for you.

Have you eliminated the possibility that the slippage is the result of an oil-soaked clutch due to passage of oil from the rear main? I know that with only 3000 miles on the clutch and pressure plate since new that's unlikely, but perhaps worth a quick check if you haven't already done so.