If you've got a set of original hoses, DON'T throw them away, the metal fittings can be fitted to new hose to make an authentic-looking installation. I had mine done by a local NAPA store that had the equipment for this.

Yes, a terrific reference site, I've been using it for quite a few years; anyone with interest in the custom body era would certainly enjoy browsing it.

I've encountered quite a few cases where Kanter Bros (the boys from Boonton) prices are less than Max Merritt, so it does pay to shop around. It also pays to ask if you're buying an NOS or NORS or Repro part as they are almost always priced quite differently.

I've posted it here before, but to elaborate on BH's comment on the embossed thief-proof number, here's Packards explanation from the 7th series owner's manual. Though no record of these numbers has survived, I've been collecting them for many years and would always appreciate new data for the file. I particularly need data from unmolested cars of the early 30s, and 1951-52; the data I'd like includes the full VN number, the thief-proof number, and for the Briggs-built bodies, the Briggs number (small tag near the heater).

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And the timing and firing order, is this the same as a 288 original?

All Packard straight 8s except the 1st and 2nd Series of the middle 1920s have the same firing order, 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4.

Perhaps your car is missing the VN tag? I have no idea what year car you're talking about, but 51-56 it's on the front driver's door pillar. 1940 thru 1950 it's on the upper face of the cowl, under the hood, driver's side. Before that back to about 1931 or so it's on the engine side of the cowl, usually passenger side. Prior to that it's sometimes on the inside of the cowl, above the brake/clutch pedals. If the tag is missing, there is no way to recover the number except by prior owner's documentation if you're lucky. For some reason I'll never understand, some people love to remove the VN tags and then loose them or peddle them on eBay. If you can't recover the #, then you may have to title with the motor number.

It's retarded timing that causes an engine to run hot. Overly advanced timing is often characterized by preignition and possibly failure of the starter motor to turn easily.

I agree with the above if the "buzz" is electrical, but if it has a mechanical sound to it, check the travel of the OD case lever.

Did you pull a couple of bearing caps to examine while the pan was down? Sure gives great peace-of-mind when you do so and find things in good order.

If you look at Section 14.100 of the 48-54 parts manual which I believe is available on this website, you'll see the significant number of different rear springs used for the 22nd/23rd series cars, depending on chassis and body. The springs for the 2206/2306 should have a specification of 1130 lbs with a rate of 110 lbs. Perhaps your spring guy should review this information to compare with how he repaired your springs.