The distributor you picture is correct for a 22nd and 23rd series Eight. The rotor can be in any position as long as the wires in the cap are correctly positioned and has already been suggested, just walk the wires around.

Put #1 cylinder on top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke (if you put it on TDC on the exhaust stroke, all your wires will be 180 degrees out of sync). Then look at the position of the rotor and place the wire to #1 plug over the rotor. Then continue in the firing order sequence 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4 in the direction that the rotor rotates; sorry I forget for the moment whether it's CW or CCW.

Parts Wizard, I believe you mean 288 cubic inch, not 282. The 120 engine before they rationalized all the bores to 3.5 for the 22nd series was 282 ci and had a smaller bore, 3-1/4 as I remember.

I used Egge in my 1934 Eight about 40 years ago and when I pulled them at 40,000 miles of use, they looked as good as the day I installed them. Yet if I could have purchased autothermic strut pistons as the originals I would have preferred them just because it's a better design and can be used with less clearance, thus probably running a bit quieter. I have heard indirectly that some years ago Egge was having quality issues with large variations in weight, and piston pin holes hot parallel with the piston top, though I haven't experienced those myself.

I believe Kanter sources pistons from several sources depending on what's available for that particular engine. I've seen some of his 3.5 inch pistons for postwar 288 and 327 engines and they were not cast Egges but of the strut design and looked like a very good piston. But for the V8 engines it seems the cast design is all that's available.

Perhaps I should be ashamed to admit it, but I don't install and burnish my own piston pin bushings so I have no experience burnishing them; I typically take the rods to a machine shop for straightening and aligning, and have them install the bushings and pins.

Re the "undersize/oversize" comment, of course it's a foible of our lingo. When the crank journal is turned undersize, then the corresponding new bearing must be oversized (thicker) to fit an undersize journal, yet we typically call the bearing undersize meaning that it's not undersize itself but for an undersize application. Unfortunately for some of us (no names), overweight and underweight within the context of body mass doesn't present the same mixed message.

For wristpin bushings, you might try FM #2304, not identical but should substitute w/o problems.

I have thought for a while about whether to dignify one of the posts in this thread with a response. I can put up with a little occasional bickering and differences of opinion; after all I don't have to read it if I don't want to, and sometimes different views expand our horizons. And although I'm a purist on my cars (both of which are drivers, one Classic and one NC), I can understand that some people want to modify their cars, and I actually find some of it technically interesting and clever. But I have absolutely ZERO respect and tolerance for people that liken others to one of the worst war criminals of all time, and neither should anyone else. Hopefully we'll see no more of that!

Models with electric wipers used a single action (no vacuum section) fuel pump.

Jet Coat is a commercial operation. My 34 Eight exhaust manifold was done about 5 years ago and if I recall correctly, it was about $300 or thereabouts.

You should check the parts book to see if you should have an insulator/spacer. If so, it's important for two reasons, thermal insulation (reason for the sleeves on the studs) and because it sets the correct distance between the pump arm pivot and the cam lobe. Incorrect spacing can result either in stress to the pivot, arm and cam lobe, or insufficient gas volume delivery. If you should have the spacer/insulator and don't have it, it's easy enough to make from any number of materials once you have the thickness dimension.

As the engine is turning over freely, you may have an easy time of it. I'd pull the valve tappet covers and make sure none of the valves are stuck; if so a bit of PB Blaster may free them up. Then I'd drop the oil pan and clean it thoroughly, replace and install clean oil. Chances are the fuel pump, lines or tank need service so you might want to rig a gravity gas can overhead to feel the carburetor and either give the ignition a tune or, postponing that till later, make sure you have spark. Just before I tried to start it for the first time, I'd put a tbs of motor oil in each spark plug hole and turn it over on the starter motor for a few minutes to distribute some oil and to make sure you have oil pressure. Optionally, you may want to remove the carburetor top and make sure the needle and seat and float are functional. If the car is stick shift, make sure the clutch hasn't frozen in place, or to be extra safe, jack the rear wheels off the ground.