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   All Posts (blue40devil)


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Re: Twelve valves
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Joined:
2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
O-D,

They are Packard script

Packard Rich EX is the lettering

Attach file:



jpg  Packard exhausr valve.jpg (166.55 KB)
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Posted on: 3/11 10:19:34
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Re: Twelve valves
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Joined:
2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
Austenitic stainless are non magnetic, commonly referred to as 300 Series. Lots of chrome and nickel. Ferritic are magnetic and are in the 400 series.

The last the engine was touched appears to be the early '70's, right at the start of the '70 clean air act.

I will go look for a logo.

Thanks

Posted on: 3/11 5:40:17
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Twelve valves
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Joined:
2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
I set up a strip magnet to hold my valves in order and found out that the exhausts won't stick to it.

Anyone know what they are made of?

Being a steel guy, I am assuming a lot of chrome?

Posted on: 3/10 20:28:01
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Re: '38 1608 V12 Project
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2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
Kevin,

I see Aircraft Spruce who is near me has a Velocity Visions aluminum cleaner and brightener, and I might give it a try.

The oil, grease is so thick I am starting with a plastic putty knife to start with.

I am trying to find something to brighten the aluminum, I don't want to paint it.

Bill

Posted on: 3/9 4:55:23
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Re: '38 1608 V12 Project
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Joined:
2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
Thanks for the warning. I am using stuff from the Dollar Store and have not had any problems. I used it on my other "P" car, the one with 2 names and it was fine, but I will sill pay attention. I only leave it on long enough for the grease to show signs of running, a couple min. then wash with carb cleaner or lacquer thinner.

Posted on: 3/9 4:51:04
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Re: '38 1608 V12 Project
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Joined:
2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
I am hand cleaning the engine using oven cleaner, carb cleaner and lacquer thinner, utilizing a pressure washer.

I am starting with the oil pan and it had what looks to be a casting date of 8-23-37. I guess that is right at the model year change.

The pan looked like the La Brea tar pits with the junk in it.

Attach file:



jpg  Packard oil pan.jpg (103.82 KB)
181435_5e659ad60f481.jpg 810X1080 px

Posted on: 3/8 18:24:42
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Re: Help appreciated
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Joined:
2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
Nice car, hard to find ones like that today.

I would eliminate the pistons/rings as the reason for the low compression. I would preform a "WET" compression check. Take out the plugs, pour a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and then do another compression check. If it comes up, that indicates rings/cylinder. If it stays the same, then it would indicate head gasket, which you have eliminated or valves.

Low compression in a couple of cylinders would make it hard to start.

Posted on: 3/7 7:45:49
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Re: Head Studs
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2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
I use these to remove them. They are sized by the diameter of the stud and use rollers and wedge to grip the stud and don't leave the marks of the other style.

I would only heat the studs themselves and use plenty of your favorite penetrating oil, mine's Kroil. (Kano Labs, Nashville, TN) As an addition or alternative, get dry ice. Grocery stores have it around here. Pack it around the stud and let it freeze. (Use gloves because it will cause burns quickly. Theory is to have it go thru expansion(heat) and contraction (freeze) cycles to loosen it's grip.

As mentioned a good rap on the top helps, just be sure you have a nut on it flush with the top of the stud to prevent damage to the threads and stud.

You might consider using a torque wrench to avoid over stressing the stud, they are not fun to drill out.

Below is a chart location (there are others) that will give you an idea of how much torque was used to install them. For example, if a 1/2" stud was torqued to 75# initially, you may not want to exceed, say 100, before stopping and trying some of the above again.

Good luck, now if I can just get my piston out.

https://aztecbolting.com/sites/default ... TorqueEstimatingChart.pdf

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jpg  Stud remover.jpg (186.00 KB)
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jpg  Stud remover2.jpg (469.52 KB)
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Posted on: 3/5 11:27:29
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Re: '38 1608 V12 Project
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
Good news. I disconnected the rod/piston that I thought was the reason for the engine being stuck and it turned over beautifully.

Now just need to get that piston loose. I can now work on it from the crankcase side.

Posted on: 3/2 10:48:56
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Re: '38 1608 V12 Project
Home away from home
Joined:
2018/8/18 3:35
From Berkeley Lake, GA, USA
Posts: 110
And the corrosion behind the water pump and the outlet pipe to the radiator

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jpg  Packard corrosion2.jpg (351.76 KB)
181435_5e5c05068aa13.jpg 1632X1224 px

Posted on: 3/1 10:54:27
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