To the best of my knowledge, all the 22nd/23rd series cars had gray (or grey if you are British) engines. The exception was some very early 22nd series convertibles with the 356 engine which were green. All three of my 22nd/23rd series 356 engines were gray from the factory. One has been re-painted green since it was transplanted into a 1941 180 limo.

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To the best of my knowledge, no one has come up with the meaning of those first four digits found on the gas tank build slip. My '49 22nd series shows 9735 and my '49 23rd series shows 67xx (last two digits are not legible).

To answer your original question... I ground my new valve stems to provide a clearance of .04 which resulted in a smooth running 356. I agree with Don, your measurements are all in spec and should be fine.

Are you aware that in order for the tuning knob to move the pointer, the bottom button must be pushed in?

You might try these guys... I've no personal experience.

http://www.runningboardrubber.com/Packard.html

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Just one more remote possibility... if the oil filler tube was not installed in the correct orientation, the splash guard on the end can come into contact with the crankshaft creating a 'clicking' noise. But, most likely a collapsed lifter.

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Also, it's showing my sign-in instead of my display name.

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Some notes on the 356. The water pump is available (new) from Max Merritt or Kanter. The 1942 and post-war 356 takes a Carter 531S carburetor, they show up occasionally on e-bay. The pre-war (1940-1941) 356 used a Stromberg carburetor. The 356 used a 5-blade asymmetrical fan. The starter was the heavy-duty gear-reduction style (Auto-Lite Max). Be sitting down when you get a quote for a restored replacement. I bought a spare dual action fuel pump from Arthur Gould a few years ago... don't know if they still have any.

It seems all forum topics now show a 'paperclip' indicating an attachment exists.

Sorry, didn't even notice this one. Looks like 'Garage de Est' ...

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