I will be replacing all pistons, rings and even though they look satisfactory the bearings as well.

I am undecided if I should overbore (which I would like to avoid if possible) or if I can just hone.

All cylinders are within the required taper tolerance (0.10 before a overbore is required). Two cylinders are outside of the recommended roundness tolerance (.004 before a overbore is "recommended").

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I found my wool broadcloth for a fraction of what the more well
known vendors sell it for, if I can be of help let me know

Here's a picture of the cloth I purchased before my interior was done

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My filler tube just pulls right out of the block - if your filler tube is the same design as my 51 there is a baffle at the end of the tube that when in the wrong orientation will come in contact with the crank

Notice the shiny spot on the end of my filler tube in the picture I attached

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I recently removed and reinstalled my oil filler tube and did so at the incorrect orientation and had the same noise. Not sure if the design of yours is the same as my 51

Using my dry compression test results as starting point (#1 - 121 / #2 - 90 / #3 -120 / #4 - 118 / #5 - 119 / #6 - 120 / #7 - 118 / #8 - 120) I removed the #2 piston - the top ring was toast and land were shot - I'm surprised I got a 90lb reading. The connecting rod bearings and wrist pin were in much better condition than I had expected

I was doing a bit of research before measuring my piston bore wear and read that the oil fill tube can come into contact with the crank if not installed at just the right orientation

Being that I had removed the fill tube I removed and inspected it and sure enough a new shiny spot witness mark.... so, that's the source of my tick!!

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Thanks Dan,

Your theory on how the damage occurred is aligned with what I know about the vehicle and that was owned by a U.S. Navel officer in San Diego by the Name of Theodore Hight. Officer Hight purchased the car new and based on my findings such as him keeping every registration slip, and other documentation it would appear he loved the car and took well care of it up until 1984 when it was parked until I purchased it in 2019.

Don: Thank you Sir! I will be sure to do plenty of vacuuming

Ross: Thanks and will do.

I assume removing the water pump is needed to fully clean my water jackets. Is there any way to test that the pump and impeller are functioning properly? I don't see anything about testing to see of the impeller is functioning

Seems like it would be foolish to have the vehicle as broken down as it soon will be and not remove and clean the water distribution tube.

Thanks Chris, that makes much more sense... Thanks!

Ross, I missed a couple of your questions.

When the car overheated the oil light did not come on, my sender triggers at anything less than 15psi

On your recommendation to clean the engine with a wire wheel, are you suggesting to clean the area not colored red in the attached images? I ask because I thought I had to be gentle with those areas.

I'm surprised I can re-use the gasket

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Hi Don, if I replace the rings with DRY compression at 90 is boring and sleeving a high need?