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Board index » All Posts (greenfield)




Re: 1934 Eight water pump
#41
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Greenfield
Yes, the IR thermometer would test the effectiveness of the water jacket as well. The water jacket has a baffle in it that receives the cool coolant (from the bottom hose of the radiator) and disperses it evenly across the head, front to back. This is done by a series of 5/8" holes drilled in the baffle and directed at each cylinder. Frequently, the baffle is rotted out which permits uneven dispersion of the coolant and therefore unequal cooling across the head. If the baffle were totally rotted, then the front of the head would be cool, and the rear much hotter. The IR temperature from front to rear should be a consistent, perhaps around 125.

Posted on: 2022/4/30 17:22
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Re: 1934 Eight water pump
#42
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Greenfield
An infrared thermometer would be my first step. You can get them cheap, like $25 at Home Depot, and will register the temperature of any surface you shoot it at. What I would do is run the engine for 15 minutes, then use the IR thermometer to take the temperature at the top hose, then work your way down and across the radiator till your at the bottom hose. The top hose will receive the hot coolant from the head, the bottom hose puts the cooler coolant back in the engine after it circulates through the radiator. The idea is that if bottom temp is still room temperature, but the top is 150 degrees, then that tells me the pump isn't circulating well. If the bottom is warmer - say 120 degrees -- then the pump probably is working. If your car has a water jacket, then, on mine at least, it can be removed and the impeller on the water pump be viewed. Don't know why the pump would be clanking unless the shaft/bushing is so worn that the shaft is banging back and worth while operating (?) Might be a good time to drain all the coolant, remove the jacket, back flush the radiator, clean out crud in the head, and inspect the water pump while your at it.

Posted on: 2022/4/30 6:27
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Re: Another scammer
#43
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Greenfield
I love these scammers. I have fun with them. Ask the scammers if the solenoid is for the four cylinder Packard, as that's the one you really need. The response should be revealing.

Posted on: 2022/4/14 17:28
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Re: 1931 826 value
#44
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Greenfield
Post a pic if you move forward with it; we'd all love to see it!

Posted on: 2022/4/14 17:18
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Re: 1931 Brakes
#45
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Greenfield
Thanks Owen - Yes I have checked all the readily available materials I have, but no mention of the thickness of the material for linings. Other references across the interwebs indicate 3/16 is the consensus thickness, so I will give that a go.

Posted on: 2022/4/14 17:11
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Re: 1931 Brakes
#46
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Greenfield
Well Max doesn't have the linings and they advise they don't pre-drill it anyway...anyone know how thick the linings should be? 3/16 or 1/4?

Posted on: 2022/4/13 17:26
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Re: 1931 Brakes
#47
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Greenfield
Thanks all!

Max sells lining material and rivets, so I will likely just buy the pre-measured, pre-drilled product as opposed to buying the generic material and fabricating my own. Model A parts suppliers sell a small rivet driving tool specifically for brake rivets, so I shall inform everyone how it works out. Yes, I saw the Bendix information on the website and will make good use of it. Stay tuned for trials and tribulations.

Posted on: 2022/4/12 17:29
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1931 Brakes
#48
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Greenfield
I pulled the front hubs off a 31 Standard 8 yesterday to repack the bearings and noticed the brake linings are nearly shot. I'd like to replace myself and saw McMaster Carr sells stock lining materials and rivets. The job looks straight forward; grind/remove the rivets and remove lining, then measure new stock to each shoe and replace. My question is is what thickness lining is appropriate, and what kind of tool would I use to countersink the rivets into the lining? Any practical advice about the job?

Posted on: 2022/4/11 6:24
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Re: 1931 826 value
#49
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Greenfield
I have a 31 826 in really great shape and have made some observations about this exact model:

1. Realize that it was the poor-man's Packard when new. It was the entry level Packard and smallest wheelbase model in 1931. It is very base when compared to the 840/845 models. You can look up the stats on this forum, but around 6k 826's were built, 6k 833's were built and 3k 840/845's were built in 1931.
2. I've read that in 1931 Packard tried to upend their competition by releasing the 1932 model year early. But this led to an inventory surplus of 31 models that needed to be sold at firesale prices, because who'd want a 31 when you could have a 32?
3. Interestingly though, very few 826's survived today. I see many more of the big Packards than I do of the 826's because car society values the big Packards more. I think the registry has a total of 7 or 8 826's listed.
4. Despite it being rare, I don't think this translates to higher values. Indeed I think the opposite might be true -- if the car isn't complete, it'll be very difficult to find any replacement parts which is a detriment to values. If it's not complete, think long and hard about it. I went to Hershey last year, and I don't think I saw any parts for it, at all.
5. My dream car is a 840 sedan, but my budget will likely never allow me to purchase. As the song goes " If you can't be with the one you love, love the one your with".
6. Having said all this, I would say a fair price for a 826 in good/great shape would be $35 to $45k; anything more I'd have understand why the premium.

Posted on: 2022/4/2 9:25
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Re: Generator no charge
#50
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Greenfield
I had a very similar situation with my 31 last summer. The engine would start just fine, but I'd register zero amps at the meter when running. If I'd turn the lights on then there'd be a slight discharge. My solution was to have the generator rebuilt by a local shop and I sent the regulator/cut-out to KM Lifestyle for rebuilding. The field coils in the generator needed to be rewound, and there was some problem with the regulator. Now everything works great and I show a positive charge. PS. I have the original Owen Dyneto regulator on the generator too. Two wires come off the generator to connect to the cut-out and the regulator.

Posted on: 2022/2/21 7:54
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