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Board index » All Posts (ElGroucho)




Re: Hub Cap Question
#21
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ElGroucho
Quote:

Bob J wrote:
Look what finally came back from the platers! Brian at Cambridge Chrome did ask if it was a rush! I said no, to be honest she just passed her safety yesterday so they came in just in time. Got them all re-painted per factory(ish) as much as I am able to do with a brush anyway. I only did 3 as one was in pretty good shape and I like to show off some of the 'survivor' chrome if it is passable.
Bob J.


Look fantastic! Curious Bob, what kind of paint did you use? Did you scuff the areas you painted? How did you apply? I've been contemplating on how to go about painting mine, as well as my bumpers. I wanted to make sure the paint adhered properly without easily coming off. Put some thought into it then got sidetracked.

Posted on: 2023/11/16 23:55
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Re: 1937-120 Color number for the red Hexagon on Bumper Guard?
#22
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ElGroucho
This is what I used. It's close enough for me. The picture comparing is stock color hexagon and what I bought.

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Posted on: 2023/11/3 18:19
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Re: 1937 120 Pedal Grommets
#23
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ElGroucho
Quote:

37Blanche wrote:
Thanks Howard. Not sure it is totally the same. I do not have a plate, but rather a board on the foot rest area. Are you saying I would remove the board place the grommets down the pedal shaft, and the place the board on top of the grommets to compress?


Yes you would have to remove that toe board. Mine was metal with some deteriorating insulation on top, so I'm thinking that's some type of insulation on yours. I have a 120c so don't know if it's slightly different from yours? But this is the best bet. Removing or dropping the pedals from the engine bay you would have to remove the board first as well as they end up hitting the master cylinder & starter and they won't pass the toe board enough for you to get them on from the engine side. At least that was my case. In my case though, I installed them before even thinking about removing the toe board so I installed them from the inside of the car and pushed them through a bit at a time to get them through the pedal opening. It was tight but I succeeded.

Posted on: 2023/11/3 18:11
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Re: 1937 120 Pedal Grommets
#24
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ElGroucho
Quote:

BigKev wrote:
The grommets go on the engine side of the firewall. They effectively "seal" only when the pedals are up, as they travel with the pedal stalk. Packard I think didn't here to prevent a toe board mounted grommet from ever causing a stuck pedal.


BigKev is correct. They stay on the engine firewall side.
1st pic shows the pedal in the up position
2nd pic shows the pedal slightly depressed
3rd pic shows the small raises portion of the pedal arm that the grommet rests on

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Posted on: 2023/11/3 17:52
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Re: 1937 120 Pedal Grommets
#25
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ElGroucho
Quote:

37Blanche wrote:
Could somebody post a picture of the proper installation of the Pedal Grommets? Not certain where they are to be placed.

Much appreciated!


I'm at work until late afternoon. If no one beats me to it, I'll get a picture for you.

Posted on: 2023/11/3 9:41
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Re: Mechanical fuel pump and electric is it possible?
#26
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ElGroucho
Quote:

TxGoat wrote:
A bypass loop with check valve would probably cure your issue. It's also possible you have a restriction in your system other than the electric pump.


Might have to look into a check valve you describe. Mechanical fuel pump has been rebuilt, gas tank has been cleaned. I tried the electric fuel pump with and without the filter.

Posted on: 2023/10/16 17:31
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Re: Mechanical fuel pump and electric is it possible?
#27
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ElGroucho
I've tried this approach before on my 37, as many have stated, to prime if it's been sitting awhile. Did some research and supposedly had gotten the correct electric pump (Airtex E8902),but when I would accelerate the car to about 55mph it would start to sputter. Seems like the fuel was being slightly restricted through the electric fuel pump. Pulled the electric fuel pump off and that fixed it. I need to try to find another electric fuel pump that'll work more so now that I'm dealing with a bit of the vapor lock issues when it's hot out.

Posted on: 2023/10/16 9:24
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Vented gas cap
#28
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ElGroucho
Was trying to figure out if my gas cap is a vented cap. To me it seems like it would be. What with the small notch and channel that follows the outer perimeter. See pictures of the arrow pointing to the notch with gasket on and without it. When researching I've come across that possibly the letter A, meant it was vented and the letter B was not vented. I could be wrong.

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Posted on: 2023/9/18 13:49
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Re: Speedometer
#29
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ElGroucho
Yeah, I took mine apart not too long ago and R&R'd it. Works great now. However upholsterer moved the cable to where it had right curve and the inner cable broke at the end. Just need to replace that and get it going again.

Posted on: 2023/9/18 13:41
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Re: Speedometer cable 1937 120-C
#30
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ElGroucho
Quote:

bullsh--ter wrote:
Universal inner cables are available at most part stores. if not in stock they can order them. Be careful when cutting the size and crimping on the end. If as you suspect the outer cable is kinked you have to remedy that situation first or suffer more breakage.


Thanks. The order cable wasn't kinked. It had a tight bend, the slack got taken out of it when the upholsterer installed the firewall pad. I fixed it by giving it a more sweeping curve. I of course didn't think of looking under the dash when I got the car back. Wish I had of, easy fix I'm sure though.

Posted on: 2023/9/13 15:27
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