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Board index » All Posts (Howard)




Re: Bumpewre to bumper dimensions 1948 7 passenger your ring sedan
#1
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HH56
Check the Dec 15, 1947 service counselor. That counselor has the specifications for the 48 long wheelbase models along with the wiring diagrams.

Here is a bit from the counselor.

Attach file:



jpg  specs.jpg (326.53 KB)
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Posted on: Yesterday 20:04
Howard
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Re: Looking for Info without much luck
#2
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HH56
Primary parts vendors for NOS are Kanter Auto, Max Merritt and Tucson Packards. All have websites and probably used parts too. Joel Ray sells some NOS items on his ebay store and several used parts dealers such as Packards Southwest and Seattle Packards sell via ebay listings as well as phone sales.

6v light bulbs are usually available at NAPA and are also sold by vendors such as YnZ Yesterdays Parts and several others. YnZ also carries new wire that looks like the old style cloth covered wire. If you order from them there may be a minimum charge so if you need more than one item try to get other things to have a decent size order.. The owners manuals which are in the literature archive typically have a chart with numbers and specifics of most bulbs used. There are a couple of manual versions for the 23rd series depending on whether car was early or late production.

Packard did not use fuse blocks until 55 so most fuses are inline. The owners manuals usually have a chart with an approximate location where the inline fuse holder might be found. They did use some circuit breakers and the occasional fuse mounted directly on the switch or another electrical item or on the back of the instrument cluster. Note that Packard used SFE type fuses which require holders that are physically sized specifically for the amperage of the fuse called for. In other words a frequently used 3, 9, 14, or 30 amp SFE fuse will not work in a holder sized for a 20 amp and most modern commonly found AGC type glass automotive fuses will not work in any older SFE holders other than the 20 amp holder.

A surprising number of old Packard items can still be found at Napa and occasionally other parts stores but it takes some sleuthing and sometimes a counterperson willing to look in old printed catalogs rather than try to pull an item up on a computer. It also helps to have a counterperson old enough to know Packard was the mfg not some model built by Ford or GM. Even tho Packard has been gone for nearly 70 years there are still a few people working counters that have heard of them.

Posted on: Yesterday 15:41
Howard
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
#3
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HH56
If you need a different size or style clip you might check out Restoration Specialties. Download their pdf catalog to see illustrations of some they carry.

You can also check out the Auveco catalog and see some of their offerings that Restoration does not carry or provide illustrations of on the Restoration online catalog. Many Auveco products can be found on Amazon or Ebay as well as thru local distributors in many locations.

Posted on: Yesterday 13:57
Howard
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Re: Looking for Info without much luck
#4
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HH56
The 46-50 service manual was comprised of 7 individual booklets and is in the literature archive but there was no electrical section issued as part of the manual -- just a wiring diagram which was published in a service counselor. There is a decent electrical section in the 51-4 manual and some of the parts carried over and were used in later models. Even if the parts were not the same the instructions for service are for the most part applicable to your 50.

As to the temperature gauge, it is electric and uses a sender screwed into the rear drivers side of the head. One unfortunate thing about the 48-50 gauges is they were of different construction than all other year gauges Packard used. Most gauges used a changing resistance type sender but the 48-50 temperature and fuel senders consist of a contact on a bimetal strip which closes to ground so the gauges get intermittent bursts of 6v current flow. The senders are controlled by the action of a heater and external force of temperature or fuel level pushing against the bimetal strip. The external temperature (or fuel level) varies the pressure applied to the strip holding the contact so it takes a longer or shorter time for the heater to bend the strip to open and close the contact. The varying duration and frequency of the on/off pulses of 6v works another heater in the gauge which controls another bimetal strip that makes the needle move. The easily found resistance type senders of other years will not work properly with these gauges. You can see if the gauge functions at all by MOMENTARILY grounding the sender wire as you watch to see if the needle moves higher but without a properly operating sender you cannot know if it is reading correctly.

NOS Packard senders are getting scarce but some Ford products of that era used a similar system. BDeB posted that 36-55 Fords used a fuel sender that will work in Packards and I suspect the temperature senders will too but it will need to be the single terminal sender. Some Ford flathead V8s used two senders wired in series so one will have a single terminal and the other will have two terminals. What I don't know is if the threads that screw into the head will be the same or if some type adapter would be needed on a Packard. Ford vendor Dennis Carpenter sells repro senders.

The usual reason brake lights are not working is failure of the hydraulic switch mounted on the end of the master cylinder. Power comes from a circuit breaker located on the back of the instrument cluster and should be at one terminal of the brake switch at all times. From the brake switch in 23rd series and later models, the wire on the other brake switch terminal goes to the turn signal switch and then via two wires on to the brake light/turn signal bulbs. There could be a dirty turn signal switch or broken wire or disconnected plug elsewhere but in all probability the brake switch at the master cylinder is where to look first.

Posted on: 3/26 22:11
Howard
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Re: Assessment of 1955 Packard Caribbean via Artificial Intelligence.
#5
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HH56
As far as the number of 55 Caribbeans made, there are 25 in the vehicle registry here on this site alone which only has cars listed from those forum posters that Mal has convinced to register their cars. PAC being around decades longer has another probably more populated registry as does a few individuals. Many of the car owners have hidden numbers from view but of those visible, some of the cars on this site's registry have numbers in the 200 range and two are in the high 300 range which immediately tells you there were at least that many made. That alone makes the 36 total incorrect but the starting and ending serial number list also makes mention of 500 as the total made.

Posted on: 3/26 17:03
Howard
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Re: Rarest Car Options?
#6
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HH56
As I recall there is a small wire resistance type heating element mounted on the black enclosure positioned so that it sticks up in the airflow. As acolds said, it takes a long time to get much heated air up on the glass. Probably good for a fogged up window and maybe some light frost but I wonder how effective or how large an area it would clear on a glass with a thick coating of ice.

Posted on: 3/25 21:35
Howard
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Re: WANTED: Hand Throttle for 1937 120
#7
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HH56
If you have a shallow container such as a cake or pie pan to hold some fluid or solvent, coiling the cable gently so as not to cause a kink but in a small enough circle to fit in the pan holding fluid might also help speed things up. The gentle coil of the cable will tend to open spaces in the outer wire wrap so fluid can get inside more freely and reach the moving wire.

Posted on: 3/25 20:56
Howard
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Re: Manual Transmission Inconsistant Feel with Stickiness
#8
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HH56
In addition to checking for wear at the ends of the long rods which is fairly common and can cause a sloppy feel, you might try placing a few drops of oil in the hole on the shift tube so it can run down inside. In addition, pace a few drops on the tube just above the levers which are below the hole more toward the bottom of the steering column. You might need to make clearance between the clip and washer above the lever so oil can get in to be able to run down and get behind the upper lever. Let it sit a bit or help it work in and then try the shifting again.

The levers need to be absolutely free and must independently rotate on the tube but the upper lever has no provsion for any lube yet gets any moisture that might condense on the tube and run down to start a rust and corrosion issue between the lever and tube. The rust causes the upper lever to stick and want to turn even though the lower lever might be the one selected for the gear you are trying for. Both levers moving at the same time causes lockout and sticking issues.

Attach file:



jpg  shift tube lube copy 2.jpg (95.01 KB)
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Posted on: 3/25 13:34
Howard
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Re: windshield wiper positioning is off, need help
#9
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HH56
Arms are also covered in the service manual instrument section and there is a reminder and maybe a bit more detail in an article on page 25 in this service counselor.

Posted on: 3/25 8:44
Howard
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Re: windshield wiper positioning is off, need help
#10
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HH56
Remove the blades, turn the motor on for a weep then off to get the drive pulley in the correct starting position. Then ensure you have the cables wrapped around the drive pulley and positioned in the correct grooves with the copper and plain ends of the cables engaged in the drive pulley as shown in the photo on page 5 of the instrument section of 55-6 service manual. One of the cables from each side pivot goes on top, the other on the bottom. If that is correct the procedure is to turn the motor on again and let it run for a sweep or two (make sure the lever is set for the normal arc sweep) and then turn the wipers off. When the motor stops it should be in the park position. You can then place the arms on the serrated posts with the blade just barely touching the chrome molding or a tiny bit above it.

Posted on: 3/24 20:10
Howard
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