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PackardDon, 1935 STD 8 Jim, kevinpackard, more...


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Re: Remove the Speedometer cable
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Can't speak to the original grommet as mine was missing. Looking at all the cracks yours may be in bad shape and somewhat hard so it can't or won't flex. With the Steele repro the new rubber is flexible enough the small nut on the speedo end will pull thru. Same with the OD cable if you remove the clevis from the rod on trans end and pull that end thru the rubber. As I recall the temp bulb, nut and tube also goes thru the grommet.

On your speedo issues from the other thread, by all means lube the bushing via the oil hole and try to work some oil in the space between the rotating collar and the casting. Inside, I found the old grease on the gear train going to the odometer wheels was hard as a rock and even though the magnet was rotating OK, the hard grease was preventing the cup from moving.

Posted on: 10/22 17:20:51
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Re: 1950 Packard color
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2007/4/20 17:54
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Looking at the 48-49 22nd series chart on this site it might be Egyptian Sand. http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/1948_Paint.pdf Color repros on computers may not be all that accurate and it could be the small strip on the 50 chart might be misleading and on a real chart or even the car, faded. Unless you know for sure the car was never repainted the car could have been done with another year or mfgs color too.

Posted on: 10/22 13:41:53
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Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
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From Fresno CA
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My OD cable is somewhat stiff to move even though well lubed so there might be enough friction to prevent drift. Obviously can't say how it compares to yours but does yours have a tube on the trans end where the threaded rod the clevis attaches slides into? That is a question because a prewar cable I have does not have a tube for the rod -- although I think it it should have one to prevent bending the wire and this cable has it missing.

If your cable is constructed somewhat similar to this 47 cable could you maybe add some kind of clamp on collar holding a flat spring or something similar on the end of the tube that would extend out and ride against to increase friction with the rod?

I can't remember if the lever is removable but if adding friction to the rod is not feasible, could the lever be removed and maybe a fiber or felt washer or something similar be added between the lever and the casting to increase friction slightly?

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jpg  OD cable.jpg (121.77 KB)
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Posted on: 10/22 11:06:05
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Quote:
The rope you are talking about is still there (kind of) on the car. Some of it is missing. I left the remainder as is for now. I think it's purpose is to keep things from falling into the space between the wheel well and fender. It certainly isn't a seam sealer and I don't think it does much sound dampening. I have no idea where to get replacements.


There is both a cotton and a fiberglass wick material that comes in various diameters which is used for Tiki torches and the like. It is a much coarser braid than normal cotton rope with an appearance I think is more like the original material Packard used. As I recall the fender stuff is somewhat near 1/2 inch in diameter. Amazon carries several offerings that are 5' or 6' long and from 1/8" to 3/4" in diameter.

Here is a comparison photo of both the 1/2" cotton and the 1/2" fiberglass round wick offered on Amazon.

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jpg  fiberglass.jpg (274.38 KB)
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Posted on: 10/20 13:40:39
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Re: 1954 Pacific / headlight out again / dash lights out /headlight circuit breaker / dimmer switch
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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If it looks like a factory split cable perhaps the car has or had fog lights. They would have needed to add another terminal to the headlight switch tail terminal. Removing the existing tail light wire and adding a split wire with the tail light wire plugged back into a short pigtail sharing the dash light power wire would have probably been the way it was done. They used the same approach on other switches where an accessory was added and needed a terminal.

The factory fog light switch was separate from the headlight switch but was normally powered from the same breaker or power source. When it was turned on the switch sent voltage in two directions. It powers the fog lights as well as another wire going back to the tail light terminal on the headlight switch to power the tail and dash lights if the headlights are off.

If that is the case and someone removed the fog light switch perhaps that bare piece had a wire yanked out during the process and the connector was left in the terminal. If fog lights and switch are still present perhaps there is a wire hanging somewhere close by the dash metal that will be powered and can short if the fog lights are on.

If no fog lights or at least not the official accessory fog lights then you have something a previous owner did and you will need to trace out all the odd looking wiring. I have no clue where or what you might look for other than check for bare wires and cracked insulation anywhere the wiring runs thru holes or gets close to metal.

I don't have a factory drawing of the 51-4 fog light circuit but maybe someone has an accessory install sheet they could share. If not, here is an older drawing showing the basic wiring as it was typically done. Switch styles are different in this illustration but the wiring should be essentially the same. In this drawing, power starts at the BAT input of the headlight circuit breaker, out from the breaker to the fog light switch input B. When the fog light switch is on, F and T both get power to go to the fog lights and tail lights respectivly. If you did not have a factory setup then it could have been wired in other ways which I can not begin to guess.

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jpg  Fog Lights.jpg (59.41 KB)
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Posted on: 10/19 6:47:49
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Re: 1954 Pacific / headlight out again / dash lights out /headlight circuit breaker / dimmer switch
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Check to see where the wire I have questioned is going. It would normally be a fairly small diameter short jumper wire to the side of the double terminal you have indicated in green. The tail light wire would be on the terminal next to it. If the wire for dash light power is the wire going to the double terminal then it is the tail light wire that is missing.

The headlight switch gets power all the time so no surprise you got sparks if the battery was still connected when you removed the switch. Not knowing the state of your overall wiring it is hard to guess where the problem might be but the old wire insulation could be brittle and cracked somewhere allowing a short. The old plastic and rubber insulations was not very stable and can dry or shrink. When that happens it can shrink back back and allow the bare wire to be exposed causing a short at a bulb socket or where it crosses metal. Under the hood the headlight wiring goes thru some narrow spots in fenders when reaching the headlight buckets so it could be cracked and able to short in several spots.

I have long been a fan of adding relays when installing halogen lights. Some of the halogens have low or the same current requirements as the original incandescents but other halogens do need more. With your breaker cutting off after a period of use it could be an aging breaker cutting off below its rating or it could be the lights are pulling current right at the threshold of what the breaker can carry. Even with the incandescents, all that current thru the old headlight and dimmer switches could cause problems if the switches are dirty or aged enough to not be making good contact.

An advantage of adding relays is you can usually get the brightest light possible because you eliminate headlight current going thru switches and a fairly long length of relatively small wiring. With relays you power the headlights with a larger wire and thru their own breaker directly from the battery connection at the starter solenoid. The original small wiring then only powers the relays on and off.

You can put together a couple of relays on a small chassis and mount the assy near the headlight terminal strip on the left fender like I did with my 47. The red and green colors shown in the factory loom coming from the dimmer switch are for the 47. 54 has light green and tan, 51-3 has green and brown for the headlight wires coming from the dimmer switch. The same setup can be used on a 12v car by changing the relays to a pair having 12v coils.

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jpg  HeadLight Relay1.jpg (184.25 KB)
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jpg  relay.jpg (221.01 KB)
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Posted on: 10/18 17:06:24
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Re: Speedo Cable 43 Clipper
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And second thing is when you remove the cable to check for rotation carefully disconnect the nut from the speedo and pull the cable housing assy back just far enough so you can first see if the square end of the cable is extending so it will fully insert in the speedo rotating collar. Perhaps the rotating cable was a bit short or on some cable assys, was inserted the wrong way and managed to drop down in the housing far enough to fall out of mesh with the square hole in the collar.

If the cable extends then check the speedo rotating collar that has the square hole in it to make sure it is turning freely. If the old lube in the speedo has dried the collar could have seized to the bushing. Having that happen frequently damages the cable and you would have no rotation. Replacing a damaged cable without working on the speedo would result in quickly having the same problem again.

If the cable is not rotating and assuming the cable has not broken, you will then need to compare the two pinion assys that go in the housing at the transmission end to make sure it is able to mesh with other pieces. There were different length and diameter pinion assys over the years and for the various transmissions and rear end ratios so perhaps there is a mismatch. A wrong pinion would let the pinion fall out of mesh with the worm around the trans output shaft or maybe the shaft is short and the cable was barely meshing with the pinion.

Posted on: 10/18 10:00:46
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Re: Packard Spot Lights
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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For the most part, unless it was something that needed to be sent out for repair or warranty such as radios Packard did not identify vendors or use their numbers in the field. They chose to assign their own PA-xxx numbers instead. Unless someone has an original install sheet that came with the lights listing a Packard model or year it will probably be hard to identify by a specific Unity number.

If the seller provided any photos of the lights, here are official photos of the Packard accessory as installed on cars from 39-42. It is unfortunate that the person who scanned 41 accessory book did not have or use a stronger descreening filter to help get rid of the moiré pattern on the 41 photo. Even with the poor detail it appears they used the same light -- although the handle color might be different between years.

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jpg  39 spotlight.jpg (935.57 KB)
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jpg  40 spotlight.jpg (34.07 KB)
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jpg  41 spotlight.jpg (180.92 KB)
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jpg  42 spotlight.jpg (745.27 KB)
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Posted on: 10/17 10:40:05
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Re: HELP! Reverse gear NOT working on 47 Clipper
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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If it does have OD check out the reverse lockout as O_D mentioned. That was an issue caused by the R9 ODs electrical system and was covered in a service article.
http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html ... loads/SC/SC-VOL21NO15.pdf

There is also another article pertaining to a failure with the lockout sleeve Peter Packard mentions. http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html ... loads/SC/SL-VOL17NO21.pdf

Posted on: 10/16 20:21:32
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Quote:
Was there a service counselor or technical bulletin on this issue?
Was this only an issue on hardtop?

There are a dozen articles on various water leaks in the 51-4 bodies. Half or more are related to the windshield areas and while it was primarily the hardtops, there are a couple of sedan mentions. If you are interested in reading them you can go to the Service Index and look under 51-54 and then Body to find a link to the various articles.

Posted on: 10/16 9:34:31
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