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Re: Emblem
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2007/4/20 17:54
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Quote:
Not sure about the brown but must come off.

If you mean the yellowish color on parts of the lower photo I think that may be what is left of the gold plating. The gold Packard used on the senior emblems was a very pale layer that apparently was plated on over the chrome. The first NOS emblem I bought was a very light yellow and not the deep rich gold color I typically associated with a quality gold plated item. I actually thought it was damaged when I got it but then read somewhere or someone explained that Packards gold was 18kt and light. For some reason it seems to rub off the chrome quite easily -- maybe when waxing but the hood piece seems to be particularly affected. Sun fading could be partly to blame but maybe the wind blast is another factor that helps makes short work of that one.

Posted on: 5/29 12:25:29
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Re: 1949 23rd Series Fuel Line
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From Fresno CA
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For an actual fitted Packard tube it would probably be from a parts car. Otherwise, Napa carries straight precut lengths of finished steel brake line in their Balkamp brand. I believe 1/4 and 5/16 tubing are both available up to 60". Don't know the length needed for the 5/16 gas line but one of the standard lengths might work. If the length needed falls between standard lengths then you would need to reroute it someway or cut any excess off and re-flare.

The wiper line is 1/4" and is also available in various precut lengths. Same applies if you need shorter although if you have the rubber hose connections at least it would not need a re-flare. If longer than 60" is needed then tubing would need to be pieced together or bought in a bulk roll and cut to length. Nuts are available separately as are the needed fittings.

One caution if you go into a Napa store. They sometimes do not carry all sizes so a particular length might need to come from a warehouse. Look out for the freight charge if it has to be shipped in special. Those lengths in stock are generally just pieces of tubing on a self serve rack and sometimes the labels are messed up and unreadable. The thing to watch for is metric sizes being intermixed with the fractional sizes. Without the label there is no easy way to tell them apart and you can guess how I know this. Other parts stores probably have a comparable item.

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jpg  steel line2.jpg (24.12 KB)
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Posted on: 5/27 14:07:10
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Re: 47 super clipper overdrive freewheel mode
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From Fresno CA
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The entire cable may need to be removed and have some penetrating oil applied in such a way it can run into the cable using the spaces between the wire wraps of the outer housing to get inside and lube the inner wire. Both housing and wire are steel and after all the years rust is a frequent problem.

A particular place that may be responsible for the limited knob out motion and no lockout is down at the OD unit. There is a steel tube attached to the housing end clamped to the bracket. A steel shaft is attached to the inner wire and slides inside the tube. Rust can be a problem there as well as damage to the tube, road tar or some other debris that gets thrown up on the shaft and tube to bind or stick any action in the tube. When the wire tries to pull the clevis and lever into the lockout position it will not have full range.

Also in that part or if the entire cable is dry or rusty and hard to move a very frequent occurrence is when pushing the knob to go into OD the end of the cable housing breaks free of the pot metal casting holding the knob and its shaft. When that happens, as Ross mentioned, the knob does nothing except maybe operate the lockout switch at the end of the bracket. You might examine yours and if the connection looks to be weakened get ahead of a future problem by using a split collar on the bracket end to reinforce the crimped on connection to the cable housing. Split collars are easy to install over the cable leaving everything intact.

Here are photos showing the possible problem area for full travel and another with the repair or an inexpensive split collar insurance for the housing breaking free problem. One collar is usually enough but this bracket had more damage and I also wanted a flush look for the assy. I partially machined out a second collar to fit up close to the wide portion of the bracket to take up the space.

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Posted on: 5/27 12:25:10
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Re: Ultramatic cooler lines
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Maybe this will help.

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jpg  cooler lines.jpg (399.65 KB)
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Posted on: 5/26 18:49:18
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Re: 1949 23rd Series Fuel Line
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Here are a couple of illustrations out of the parts book. The fuel line you said you already have so it should end under the right side of the radiator where the flex hose to the fuel pump will connect. As mentioned before you may have a brass fitting with an SAE flare bolted to the crossmember or the later style with a nut and inverted flare directly on the tube. The long curved tube to feed the carb is shown between the pump and carb. The optional filter would have the line disconnect at the carb end and filter would be added in just before the carb.

The vacuum supply for the wiper motor is also shown in that full illustration but is kind of hard to see the way they drew the layout. All of that is on the passenger side of the car and is better shown as I drew it in red in the second illustration. The full factory illustration shows a later model where the source connection to the intake manifold is near the carb. On a 23rd series the vacuum source connection should be at a port near the top front of the manifold.

Depending on what fuel pump is sent there could be two methods of connecting the vacuum lines. Early models had fittings and tubing screwed directly to the vacuum section as the illustration shows. Later pumps that may be sent by a vendor instead of the original have small tubes pressed into the pump ports and short lengths of rubber hose are needed to connect between the pump and metal tubing. Unless you cut the old metal tubes you may need to get some barb fittings to work with what is there on the original tubing so the rubber hoses can connect.

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jpg  wiper vacuum supply 48-50.jpg (174.30 KB)
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Posted on: 5/25 19:33:12
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Re: 47 super clipper overdrive freewheel mode
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The B-W book Joe linked is for the mid 48 and later R11. Prior to mid 48 the cars would have an R9 unless it is one of the probably few cars where an owner bought an R11 upgrade kit due to unresolved reverse lockup issues with the R9. The corresponding service and troubleshooting book for the R9 OD can also be downloaded from the literature section. http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html ... conoDriveTrainingBook.pdf

Posted on: 5/25 17:10:23
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Re: Brake drum puller -Ď48 Custom
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2007/4/20 17:54
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Quote:
Iíve been offered the one pictured for a reasonable price.

Depends on what you call a reasonable price. If reasonable means cheap, IMO it might be worth a taking a chance since aside from the end it looks in decent shape otherwise and more importantly looks to be of an appropriate size. It is likely not something you will use more than a few times anyway to spend a lot of money on new unless you have more than one car that could need it. Rentals can get expensive if you run into a stubborn hub and need more than a day with the tool but that might be a possibility. On the $70 item it might work as long as it is not too small or made from cheap castings and weak steel. The larger Packard Custom hubs can take a surprising amount of strength and pull to remove particularly if they have not been off for years. No matter which puller you wind up using make sure to loosen the nut a few turns but leave it threaded on the axle while pulling the hub. When the hubs break free they can shoot with force and a considerable distance if not restrained.

There looks to be evidence of maybe something like a pipe or Stillson wrench being used in place of the dogbone. I agree that it is doubtful a socket would hold on the chewed up hex but you might be able to use another pipe wrench with a longer handle than the dogbone to get added leverage. The extra length might over come the loss of impact from hitting the dogbone ends.

Possibly even have a bar welded on the end to hit and thus mimic the dogbone and still leave the chewed up area behind the bar to use the pipe wrench leverage or maybe you can grind and dress up the hex to fit a smaller size impact socket instead of welding on a bar and then use an impact wrench and socket wrench to tighten and as backup the pipe wrench for leverage.

Posted on: 5/25 14:28:20
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Re: Aftermarket Air Conditioning
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2007/4/20 17:54
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Ross has designed one of the simplest and probably easiest to make brackets for mounting a Sanden compressor on an inline 8. My only concern was the long unsupported belt lengths since he does use one fan belt for the compressor and PS. It has been almost 8 years since he did this first one and believe there have been others made since then. Don't recall him mentioning any issues with belt whipping so if that is the case there would be no need to figure out an extra pulley to drive the compressor. If interested in this approach you might contact him and see if there are updates or anything he has done differently.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... id=133069#forumpost133069

Posted on: 5/24 20:53:04
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Quote:

BDeB wrote:
It looks like the adjustable connecting links on Wes's car are installed on the wrong side of the levers on the shifter shaft. They need to go on from the lower side facing up and not from the upper side facing down as installed.


Egad! Such a simple thing and it even shows them coming from the opposite side on one of my photos and in the parts diagram and I missed them both. Glad there is someone on this site with an eye for detail to catch silly things like that.

As to the question if there are differences between models, according to the parts book no. Except for the 41 version being different, all the 42 and later cars thru 50 use the same assy.

Posted on: 5/23 15:22:10
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
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It is a puzzlement as to why such an angle between the levers and idler is present. If the levers are correct and motor or steering box did not shift, the only other thing I can see that could be responsible for a misposition would be the engine mount for the idler levers.

I had a serious amount of wear down at the bracket bottom where the bent piece is secured resulting in the idlers flopping side to side when shifting. If yours is seriously worn or someone tried to replace the bracket with one with holes in a different spot or if the bracket is tightened down at an angle any of those conditions could move the upper end of the idler enough to cause a problem. If the short side of the 90 degree shaft is a different length then that too could move the idler levers and also cause the misalignment.

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jpg  idler.jpg (90.83 KB)
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Posted on: 5/23 8:42:38
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