Since filters were an optional on some till the end, would think painted or not would also depend on when/where filter was installed. I can't recall anything ever standing out other than natural steel.

Also the owners manualhttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/1937_SixOwnersManual.pdf

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Believe the bulb is a standard 7" round 6v you can probably just ask for at Napa. Think the number might have been posted earlier on site and a search might find it.

Here is a possibility from Restoration Supply www.RestorationStuff.com on the filter if you are willing to use a paper element instead of the ceramic.

Don't know for sure if Cadillac used same type as there is no picture on their site but if so, McVeys advertises the complete assys and might be the real ceramic.

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Not too familiar with that era cars but you mentioned a glass filter bowl. If it's the type that has the ceramic filter element, I had an experience on a post war where the element looked clean and you could blow air thru but was clogged enough with varnish from sitting that fuel was just not able to get past fast enough so engine stumbled.

Packard part number is 416023 but seriously doubt you will find anything usable on a 51 at any regular parts store--probably a vendors only item.

There are 4 nuts and washers on each side and if power seat, one about a foot inward where the motor anchor is. On the drawing, the studs and some locations can be seen sort of identified with a white dot. They are attached to tracks at each corner and protrude below for the nuts. The power motor anchor nut is in that odd shaped piece where the white dot is (slightly below where the lone 30.93019 identifier is sort of by itself in the middle).

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Am not aware of anything connected to gas pedal regarding brakes.

If you refer to the black canister between the master cylinder and brake pedal, then that is the vacuum booster portion. Aside from the lubricant getting sticky and preventing the return spring from functioning well, a hose disconnecting internally or fluid leaking in due to a bad seal on MC piston, very little usually goes wrong there.

Two recurring themes with Easamatics (Bendix TreadleVac) seem to be 1) is there is only a single lip seal between the piston and vacuum so if any pitting of piston shaft or seal damage happens, the fluid can be sucked into booster section. 2) The compensating port to fluid reservoir valve is a single "blob" of rubber on a stalk and suspended on a spring. When the brakes are released and "home", this valve is tipped to open the port. It returns straight to close as soon as pedal pushed. If the spring is weak, damaged, missing or the rubber is hard, damaged or anything floats in the fluid and gets caught under a valve sealing surface there is no valve, no sealing, no pressure and no brakes. This has been reported to have happened very suddenly--good brakes the first stop and none the next.

The best recommendation would be to have the unit thoroughly checked and rebuilt by one who is extremely familiar with them and knows what to look for. They also have some parts not in the rebuild kit re-manufactured -- but only for their own use. There are some names on site. Barring that, check for any sign of pitting on the shaft, replace at the slightest indication and use a quality rebuild kit with fresh rubber. Check the small compensator valve spring very carefully for any signs of weakness or corrosion and make sure the end of the stalk is on the correct side of piston end ridge or lip when reinstalling--otherwise it will be broken off.

Interesting little lack of proof reading there. Hopefully not too much damage was done since it looks like most apparently don't read that part--I mean look how long it has been there and just now someone has mentioned it. As you said, correct specs are in the spec section and also service counselors.

Just curious--Think my manual is an early version since it has a big blank spot instead of a picture for figure 3 - longitudinal section. Is yours the second version with something in fig 3 yet still has the error?

Are the gasket surfaces flat and seating well? Is the inlet valve installed correctly or freely opening. Assuming all else installed correctly, the only thing I could see happening is gas is not free to enter the pump or diaphragm chamber and it is trying to pull from somewhere else. Sometimes the short rubber hose between steel line and pump deteriorates to the point where the inside collapses and no gas can flow thru. Must say though, I've never seen a pump with that much strength to be able to pull a gasket.

Maybe the PI judging book will say for sure but this is what Max says for the subject.

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