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I may not have made this clear in my post, but I just removed the fan and left the pulley on the hub. Because the pulley interferes with the waterpump bolts, I preferred having it loose so I could shift it side to side and pull out each bolt individually.

The block was flushed significantly, and repeatedly, from the fall of 2020 until the spring of 2022 when I finally solved my overheating issue with the correct radiator core. Everything in the water distribution tube that I could see still looked great.

I talked to the rebuilder (Arthur Gould) and the leakage I'm experiencing is fairly common. I'll send it back to them. Not sure if they are going to replace the bushing, or if it just needs to be shifted.

I pulled the water pump off yesterday. That task does not get any easier, even though I've done it several times!




To remove the water pump, you must:

1. Remove fan blade and fan belt
2. Drain coolant via radiator petcock.
3. Disconnect lower radiator hose.
4. Unbolt water pump - the bottom passenger side bolt is hard to get to. I have to loosen the two bolts for the front motor mount, jack up the engine slightly, and then wiggle the engine with a prybar until I can get a socket on the bolt. Total pain by myself, would be much easier with two people! The picture below is the bolt in question, before I made it accessible.




Lots of damage from the leakage, that will be this weekend's project to correct.




I'm still running a Gano filter, and it's still earning its keep! All of this was in the filter since I last cleaned it, probably 1,500 miles and two years ago?

Concur w/ Waldron exhaust. I have their system on my '37 120, and it is excellent construction.

Try adjusting the tappet forest, but yes, you may have to take just a little off of the stem too. Pictures please!

On my 120, there was only wire mesh. It was a fine mesh, looked mostly like the mesh in a coffee maker that doesn't require a paper filter basket.

Not sure what the fuzzy stuff was!

When I did the guides on my 115, I had more trouble getting the new ones in. Dry ice helped, but you might order a few spares, since the dry ice will make the already brittle valve guides even more brittle!

Thanks for all the inputs. Certainly gives me a lot to consider! Whatever I do, I'll post about it in my project blog.

Karl, you are correct in that many viewers are awestruck by the beauty of your work, and have nothing additional to offer! Your craftsmanship is incredible, and I only hope you are teaching a young apprentice at least some of what you know, because it is clear that you are a master of your craft. Keep up the great work, and know that many of use look forward to your next post!

Ken

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jw4 - yes, it is an all original car. Details are in my project blog in my signature line. I didn't want to go through the entire history.

I plan on driving it quite a bit. I've put ~2500 miles on is in the last four years, and I have visions of a few longer tours (i.e. Pacific Coast highway) in a few more years.

All, looking for opinions here. Background - I have a 1937 Packard 120, all stock. ~56,xxx miles, all original condition. The engine was refreshed a few years ago with an in-frame overhaul. Rear end ratio is 4.09:1. It will cruise effortlessly forever at 45-50 mph. I am happy driving it 55-60 mph for long periods as well, which it does without complaint or overheating. I've had the car to 70 mph a few times, and it is fine but certainly not sustainable, and it feels like I'm racing the engine. In a few years, I'll be moving to an area with lots of 45-55 mph country highways and no interstate.

The transmission leaks oil (I think from the cover on the input shaft, but cannot tell for sure), and the second gear synchro is worn. Shifts fine cold, but once warmed up, even with double clutching, it is sometimes very difficult to get it into second gear. It will be fine for the summer driving season, but as I'm thinking of post-Hershey winter projects, I have a decision to make. Option 1 is to simply rebuild what I have. I've rebuilt this same transmission (on a 115) before, so not concerned about the feasability, and I think parts should still be easy to come by. Option 2 is to find an R-11 overdrive, find a spare '37 transmission cover to modify the shift forks to work with the R-11 while retaining floor shift, and get a new driveline to modify.

I know I could modify my current driveline and transmission cover, but I want to be able to return everything to stock if I desire.

Does the frame need to be notched at the rear output of the transmission for this mod?

Given that I will likely rarely, if ever, see speeds over 60mph for the foreseeable future, is it worth the time/effort/energy/money to convert?

Again, looking for opinions here, so I'm interested in your thoughts, especially if you've done the conversion or driven a similar car. Thanks!