Pretty sure it's EIIEEIIEEIIE, but not 100%. If you look in my 115c project blog, linked below, there are some details and pictures of the valves.

Good luck!

Ken

Kev, I'm about to be away from a computer for a few months, but if you look through my two project blogs, you'll see a lot of pictures of the areas you're working on. (Links in my signature)

If you haven't already addressed it, recommend adjusting the steering box (book is good, got my shims from Flack) and renewing the center steering bearing - stuff on my 120 blog, got the bearings from NAPA. Those two adjustments took my 120 from 1/4 turn of play to smooth, tight steering. I can parallel park it with ease.

The rubber is, I think, about 1.5" long and 1/8" thick. It may say in one of my blogs. They actually need to be removed before you pull the fenders, and as others have said, come on and off for maintenance. With the stock engine, you pull the passenger tire and inner fender to adjust the valves.

Great work, and I can't wait to see how far you've come in a few more months!

Ken

Kev, was going to send you a picture of the linkage, but you’re correct, it’s very low down.

My car has an R-1 radiator cap, not an R-2. Not sure what the difference is.

That 626 is a beautiful car.

Drained and refilled the rear shocks with fresh oil, installed new shock links and bushings, and back on the road.

Got the links and bushings from Max Merritt. Caveat emptor, the links and bushings have to be ordered separately, and I ended up using my bushing washers and all nuts from the original shock links, to retain stock appearance. Very happy with the links, but the hardware they come with is nothing like the original.

I was surprised to find how little compression damping the shocks had. Rebound damping feels much better, and the car rides much nicer, so successful overall, just surprised.

Oh man! I’m sorry - I misread your post while trying to wrangle kids to bed. BigKev and Mal are right - EIIEEIIEEIIEEIIE is correct. Just went and confirmed on my car.

Your pattern is correct.

Oh man Kevin - that car is amazing! Lots of pics of my ‘37 115 in my old project blog in the link below, and if you need any pictures of my 120, I’m happy to provide!

Best of luck with the project! Excited to follow along!

I did find one problem - upon cleaning the u-bolts, it was evident that they were a little bit loose. I think this is what was allowing the axle to shift laterally. I also measured the leaf spring arch. Per Eaton spring, factory arch is 8-1/2". Passenger was at 8-3/4" and drivers was at 8-1/4".


I swapped sides of the leaf springs, reassembled everything, and got her back on the road. Clunk is still present, but much softer. I suspect the clunk is from the rear end as Jeff suggests. Perhaps it was made worse by the loose u-bolt, or it sounds the same and it's just my wishful thinking that it's better. Either way, I'm going to drive it!



I am also renewing the shock oil and installing new shock links. We'll see how she rides when I'm all done.

Pat, thanks for that. I'll take a look.

Spent some more time this weekend on the springs. After cleaning everything up, still no smoking guns. There are some wear marks on each main leaf where the gaiters have rubbed for the last 85 years, but no cracks or anything that I can see. The ONLY issue that I have found so far, in addition to the right spring having more lateral motion when installed, is that the two leaf springs have a different static height. The passenger side leaf spring is about 1/4" taller than the drivers side.

I didn't take the frame height measurements discussed in the service manual before I disassembled, because I was expecting to find a broken bolt or spring mount.

I tore it down before I remembered that I'm supposed to have the car in a parade on Thursday. Based on that, and no obvious problems, I think I am going to trying swapping leaf springs side to side, and re-installing, using the shackle guidance above (my shackles do have the notches in the outer plate discussed in Howard's post), and see if the problem remains, shifts sides, or goes away completely.