Thanks! That would explain why I couldn't find anything in the literature about it. I did find where some of the aero engines were sleeved, which makes sense.

I'll do some more cleaning tomorrow, and give my ridge reamer a try. I'll post pictures if I run across anything especially unusual.

Quite a while since I've posted. I had a trip out of town, and work has been picking up. I have received nearly all of my parts- I just need to order valve guides, and I'm ready to re-assemble to at least a short block!

I did find a valve guide driver:

http://www.amazon.com/Manual-Valve-Guide-Driver-11/dp/B008CP6M6G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413852575&sr=8-4&keywords=11%2F32+valve+guide+driver

I may need to get it machined down where it sits on the boss, but it is at least the right diameter.

I did not realize the cylinders were sleeved... or at least mine appear to be. Were all Packards sleeved? If not, when did they stop?

I am driving down to Utica on Saturday to pickup my exhaust manifold and fender and to meet a fellow Packard enthusiast. Looking forward to meeting someone as crazy about these cars as I am.

Thanks for the info! John, sorry your part didn't work out, but thanks for the offer. If you are ever in Saratoga, look me up!

I will be at a wedding, so next year for me. I was hoping to meet some of you. Next year in Maryland may be my next, best shot.

Thanks to all! The crack is external, about two inches long, on the drivers side of the block between cylinders four and five. There is a picture below. It weeps water cold.

How do I measure for worn valve guides? Is it lateral motion of a valve placed in the guide, measured with a dial indicator, or is it diameter of the valve guide? I also have one valve guide (#2 exhaust) that is raised up quite a bit. I was planning on just pushing it back down. Interestingly enough, this was not one of my broken valve springs. Any thoughts on what to drive it back down with? In the absence of the special Packard tool, I was planning on using a hardwood dowel or brass drift punch, to avoid mushrooming the guide.

EDIT: The valve guide is not clipped; it is raised up.

My generic engine overhaul book just got here today, so I'll read up some more before I finish my inspections.

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Owen, I want to make sure I understand you correctly- you think I should just replace the broken valve springs, clean out the carbon, and put it back together with the original rings? The goal of the semi-rebuild was to stop the smoke, and get the engine as good as possible without throwing good money after bad.

I am working on a 1082 115c. I started restoring it about three years ago, but then the tour I was doing in the navy precluded me from working on it, so it has been sitting for three years. I'm now on a new tour, stationed in upstate NY.

The block is cracked on the driver's between 5 and 6 cylinders, and it is a cold water leak, so I don't want to waste any money on machine work. I thought this would be a good way to learn, and if the engine gives up the ghost in a few years, I can get an uncracked block and perform a full rebuild.

The piston damage I was concerned about was the pits in the tops of the pistons shown, and #2 has a piece missing from the crown

More pictures of the tear down are on my project blog:

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=6550&start=160

Hello all. I'm in the middle of trying to overhaul my engine. I wanted to freshen it up now, before I delve into body work. The block is cracked so I trying to freshen it up and reduce the haze of blue smoke that comes out of it whenever it runs. Prior to the teardown, my compression was 95-85 psig on all cylinders, but it smoked (blue) no matter engine temperature. I only put maybe 20 or 30 miles on it, so I can't tell you if it was burning significant oil.

I have two questions.

1. I measure the cylinders for taper, and as far as I can tell, all of my cylinders are 3.440" (+/- 0.002") in the middle and bottom of the cylinder. Top of the cylinder, just below the carbon ring, seems to be 3.450", +/- 0.002". It is my first time trying to take these measurements, but I took all of them twice, and it seemed pretty consistent, so I think I am doing it close to right. What is the specification for cylinder taper? I cannot find it for this engine. I am not terribly confident in my measurements because it is the first time I've ever done it. The cylinders were clean and dry, but I haven't run a ridge reamer through it yet. My upper measurements were just under the carbon ridge.

2. Two of my pistons are slightly damaged. Should I replace them? See pictures below. Also, anyone have a source for NOS pistons? (No, flackmaster doesn't have any!). One is marked D and one C, so one is 0.0015" over and the other is 0.001" over stock size. The other four pistons are flat.

Thanks!

(Many more pictures in my project blog)

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Thanks for all of the information.

Valves- I got all of the valves out and cleaned up. I ended up using a rented Autozone spring compressor- it worked just fine with the straight jaws. After cleaning up the valves, they are all straight and crack free. The margin on all the valves looks good, so I don't think they have been ground a million times. I did see some corrosion that concerns me. Also a few extra markings on the head of the valve. #1, #2, and #4 intake, plus #3, #5, and #6 exhaust. #1 exhaust valve also shown for comparison. These corroded areas are all on the top of the valve- does that mean I just shouldn't worry about it? #3 exhaust seems corroded on the seating side as well.

I had two broken valve springs and a third that isn't factory. #1 intake and #6 exhaust were broken, and #5 exhaust is not stock. Smaller diameter, larger wire, taller, and a different color. I'll be replacing those three, at a minimum.

Valve guides- the valve guide for the #2 exhaust valve is lifted. At first I thought it was modified- there are some service bulletins that show clipping the exhaust valve guides, but it looks like it just pushed up. Should I just tap it back down, replace it, or replace all of the valve guides? I don't have the special Packard tools- what should I use to do the work?

Pistons- At first, I thought all of my pistons were good. They appear to be factory, they are stamped 9 3, and then most are stamped D, with two stamped C. The D means they are 0.0015" over, and C means 0.001" over, according to the service manual. But... number 2 has two chunks missing from the top edge, and both 2 and 3 have a lot of corrosion on them. I don't see any evidence of a leaking head gasket, so maybe this is from a previous issue? Should I replace either one? Again, my goal is to do no machine work to the block, because of the crack on the water side. There is a also a chunk of missing material the size of a small pebble next to one of the oil pan holes. Not a big deal.

There is also a small piece of mystery material. I thought it was piston ring, but none of the pistons are missing anything. I found it on the block between 5 and 6. Any idea what it is? It is thinner than the #2 ring and thicker than the oil ring retainers.

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Disregard. It has been worked out.

See you at Hershey next spring!

I was able to get off work a little early today, so I worked on the car this afternoon.

Pulled the oil pan and pulled all of the pistons. Everything looks... ok? I found a piece of ring in #5, and some scoring in #2 cylinder (see attached). I think I can probably hone it out, but I'm not really sure, so I'm open to thoughts. My block has a cracked water jacket, so I don't want to spend any money on machining if it doesn't need it. When I did a compression test a few years ago, the numbers were fairly uniform. The main reason I'm opening up the engine (other than wanting to do everything right, or close to, the first time) is that it smoked quite a bit, all of the time. I should just get a new engine, but since this one seems serviceable, I thought I would learn on it, and an in-frame overhaul seemed like just the ticket. Found a few descriptions on this forum, and it seemed like a project I could handle.

How do I tell if the pistons are OEM?

Also, I'm going to pull the valves next. Are there valve guide seals, or just valve guides? How do I pull those?

Thanks in advance for your help- I'm into new territory.

Any tips on brand for a ring compressor and valve spring tool? I was just going to use a local auto parts store or summit racing, but I wasn't sure if I should get something special for the valves since it is a side valve engine.

Last question- Kanter for parts, or are there other options. At a minimum I am planning on piston rings, rod bearings, and a timing chain. More if required. I'll get my gaskets from Terril Machine in Texas- I've had good luck with them.

Thanks!

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