That's a pretty car. Too bad I have one already, and it's still in the garage stage.

So, while driving across the country this summer, I want to stop at a Packard museum. My thoughts are America's Packard Museum in Dayton, or the National Packard Museum in Warren. I only have time to stop at one, and I'm thinking the latter.

Any thoughts?

Thanks for the info Howard.

I have more questions. Does anyone have a good source for the straps that go between the tank and the straps? What about the felt washer on the dipstick? I tried to find some sources locally, but didn't have any luck. Thoughts? Thanks!

Got some more done last night and today. I didn't have any kerosene laying around, so I bought a can of lock lubricant with graphite. I sprayed a little in the heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold, and after soaking overnight and a little initial persuasion with a pipe wrench, the heat riser valve moves freely. New spring installed, and as soon as I get the right size bolt (I forgot to get the long one!), my manifolds will be back together and ready to be milled or re-installed.

Put the final coat of paint on the motor and transmission. I didn't paint the head yet, I'll do that after the motor is installed.

Ordered a fuel flex line from Niagra Packards and hood hold-downs from San Diego Packard. I was going to order a battery box from SD PAC as well, but Rock Auto Parts (http://www.rockauto.com/) has them for $10 less. They also have some rubber products, I may investigate there when I get to the rubber replenishment stage. Long time off right now.

I also painted the e-brake cable brackets today.

Final thing- I was going to flare the tubing on the sending unit out of my tank, but I happened to pull one out of the rusted tank remnants on the '38 last night. The line was in good shape and still had the fitting, so I decided to use it. I took it apart- one stiff pull- and then disassembled my sending unit.

Before I reassemble the unit, I will have to make a new gasket and get two small brass rivets. Before I put it back together, I want to verify the sending unit works. I tried to get a resistance reading from it, and couldn't get very good numbers. I think the resistance went from about 20 to 160 ohms full to empty, but I couldn't get the same reading twice.

Anyone know the specs, or where I can find them?

Rusted out old unit with the good brass tube:

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I have not registered the car yet, but on the title I have from Iowa, the car is registered using the VIN number on the firewall plate (not the theftproof number).

The block wasn't weeping coolant, so I will probably leave it alone for now. Long term, I'll use plugs and JB weld, or have it tig welded now that I know the block is cast steel.

As an aside, I believe the block is probably original to the car, but I know the title is not! The old gentleman I bought it from bought it with no title, and took the VIN plate and title from a scrap heap 115 and transferred it to mine. So, based on the disassembly, I think everything except the VIN plate is original, but I don't know the original VIN.

I think the crack in the block will be super easy to manage- I had it up to temp a few times, and it wasn't weeping from the crack at all.

I haven't worked on the water distribution tube since my last post. I painted the block, and I want to let it get well-cured before I get too busy trying to get the tube out.

Headed out to my neighbors farm to look at a '38 Packard Eight. I thought I was going to be able to get a heater and spare wheel from the car. It turns out that there were no wheels, and the heater was rusted through. I brought home an autolite starter with the original solenoid that won't fit my delco starter, a banjo steering wheel core that I think is slightly different from my '37 wheel, and a clock that has a rusted through case. Pretty sad car. I was out of light, so I didn't get any other pictures. A Buick in the foreground of the one picture. Not sure what year it is, but I like the hood handle and scallop in front of the headlight.

The story behind the '38 Eight- my neighbor's dad bought it in the fifties for the tires. Scrapped the rest of the car, even though it was running and driving at the time. It's been sitting here rotting for a half century. The block might be worth saving, maybe.

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Based on my current nomadic (Navy) lifestyle, I think I'll pass on the Ebay block. The '37 six is unique to that year, but based on numbers, I think there are probably several out there. I know where I can get one in Iowa also, that runs, but I'll wait a few years to start looking for spare parts. It depends on where life takes me. I am planning on using the plug method with some JB weld to fix it temporarily.

Awesome, thanks for the quick response guys! My tank pickup only has about a 6" pigtail, so I will probably but a nut on it, flare it, and then use a double female adaptor to attach is to my hard line. I actually went and looked at a 1938 Packard 120 today that I was hoping to get some parts from, and when I lifted the trunk lid, the trunk floor was rusted through the top of the fuel tank. I reached in through the trunk and removed the fuel pickup tube. Will post pictures tomorrow.

It's not a platinum diamond encrusted model like a '32 boattail speedster, but all of the pre-war Packards have decent value, especially if this one is an actual barn find that is pretty rust free and original. My car is a '37 115c, which is pretty common, and the NADA high book is 49K. I don't think I'll ever get that, but you never know.

IMHO, any Packard that is not rusted into the ground is worth saving, just because it's a marquee that hasn't been made for 55 years (53 if you count the Studebaker years).

So, in the process that is my car, I'm about to craft a new hard line to replace the rubber hose that some clever mechanic had grafted in place of the original line.

Can someone with a 1937 115c/120 (or similar year) point me to a picture of the fuel hard line on the engine end? (Where it attaches to the flex hose)

I'm planning on using 5/16" because that's what I remember hearing that it takes.

How does it attach to the fuel tank pickup tube? Small piece of rubber hose with a hose clamp on each end?

Thanks guys!