My plan was to wrap a thick rag around the pinion, double duct tape it, and the sandblaster is pretty cautious. I don't have any intention of disassembling the gear set.

No idea- he made it sound like someone made a Chevy pump fit. Didn't really ask for more detail, since it didn't affect me. Now that I know I have the right fan, I'll paint it up. Thanks.

I'm working on a 1937 115C- unlike some of the more experienced Packard owners on this site, I'm on my first, and thus far, only Packard automobile. Sharing a name with a marquee doesn't mean every car I've owned has been a Packard!

Thanks for the insight on the Timken website. I'll check that out.

Incidentally, my front wheel bearings were replaced with Timken units at some point in the cars life. I'm thinking this indicates that the odometer reading of 37k is the second time around. I also think someone rebuilt the front end years ago. The king pins, lower support arm out bearings, and outer tie rod ends all seemed very tight, but all the rubber was shot. I think age vice mileage.

... getting a bit off topic- guess this is for my blog. Thanks, as always, O-D for the thoughts. I'm starting to think I should just bypass this whole forum thing and put you on speed dial!

Hahaha!!! As someone who pointed to your bluntness yesterday, yet firmly on your side today, I'm cracking up. The earth is in fact... drum roll... ROUND!

Sorry to nitpick, I understand your point and that it was probably a typo, but I thought it was funny.

I have been interested in the debate. I've always bought WIX filters. My dad was a heavy equipment mechanic for 20 years, and always said he had heard bad things about Fram. I disagree with the guys buying cheap filters- if you spend $2 more on a filter and it saves you 50k miles, is it really that expensive? I think changing filters is cheap insurance for mechanical systems. Just my thoughts.

Well, I'm 29, and if I'm going to put the blood, sweat, and tears into restoring it, doubt I can think of a reason to sell it. My plan was to just get a 25' roll of tubing. I made 4 practice flares today, and I think I cracked the code- the 4th was nearly indistinguishable from the factory flare. This was on a scrap piece of 1/4" steel tubing.

I have one line that is too long to do in one piece unless I work from a roll, so my plan was to just do all six from the same roll.

Last question of the day, I promise!

Is this fan blade correct for my 1937 115C? The gent I bought it from told me he swapped the correct Packard water pump back onto the car- just not sure if he followed suit with the fan. Thanks, as always!

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So, sending the differential out to be sandblasted, and I want to fix all the leaks after I paint it before I put it back in the car. The pinion seal and axle seals are clearly leaking.

- Are these all obscure, or should I be able to match it up with a modern seal at a local parts store? I thought I'd ask now in case I need to order anything.

- How does the third member seal to the differential housing? Is it a cork gasket or something else? Also, do the axles shafts just pull out, or are there c-clips in the spider gears?

- Final question: how available is the pinion crush sleeve?

Thanks!

So, the steering box on my 115c has been leaking over the course of the cars history. I'm not familiar with the terminology of the car, but it is leaking from the lower end of the worm gear on the steering column.

How do I go about fixing this? Is it a really tough rebuild, and I should just put some new gear oil in it and wipe it off occasionally, or should I tear into it?

Thanks for any info?

So, I'm in the middle of restoring my frame. My hard brake lines are all shot, and I think I'm a reasonably handy guy, so I'm going to give it a go on making my own brake lines.

Trying to decide between Cu-Ni and steel brake line. I've heard the Cu-Ni is slightly easier to work, and I'm strongly attracted to its corrosion resistant properties, but I thought I would get some thoughts before I proceed.

Not that it should make a difference, but I'm working on a '37 115c.

I will offer, if you do want to get it working fully, that the service manual says to lube the shaft with a mixture of graphite and kerosene as most types of lubricant will cause carbon buildup as they burn off when the manifold is hot.