Oh too late ,I rebuilt the little rascal with some wire and a motorcycle inner tube ,wasn't too hard in the end
I mounted it up to flow behind the dash on a blank part of the firewall as the original spot got taken by the disc booster ,boy that was an adventure ,!, the firewall insulation is a layer of 60 yr old cardboard and then some jute ,both very dry and great tinder for the sparks from a abrasive wheel ,DASH FIRE !
I got it installed and got the cable freed up and reattached
Next will be taking the battery tray out and putting in the lower tube which I had to shorten 8" and then the flex hose
But I used up my fun time vacumbing up the fire extinguisher stuff

Where in your blog ,I must have missed it its pages and pages !

Thanks for the good suggestions !i was able to tap it out pretty straight
The central flapper rod sort of wiggles out ,its shaped like s snake lying on the ground in s turns and it has a flat rectangular channel to run through in the flap which is what makes it turn
I pulled it apart and made a new flapper guesstimate out of an inner tube and will use wire to put it back together
There's some good firewall real estate above the steering colom exit and below the little cable for the vacumb wiper motor
I moved the voltage regulator sideways to the left plenty of room for that
I'll have to shorten the long lower duck 6-8" and add some flex able duct is a turn to bring the source of air up higher ,hopefully it'll flow down nicely from under the dash
The only thing in the way on the inside is a paper heat dispersal duct
But I live in texas where 60 is cold
So when you go from off to air does the cable push or pull?
Tomorrow paints dry and I'll reassemble with wire ,make new gaskets and order the oil cloth duct ,max Merritt has it

Go with the 53 ! I have a 52 it's great and similar
I lost a 52 in Katrina and got another one !
I drove it to the market today just to get one little thing
Ask the man that owns one !

Hi I'm going to rebuild /replace/ ? The driver side 5 " fresh air duct
There's a flapper with dry rot rubber but the case is bent
Didn't find a new unit
The Kanter guys said they made a replacement but stopped 30 yr ago
Max Merrit has the rubber
The flap is sort of stapled together over a pivot bar inside the duct
It has a flange to screw into the firewall with 4 screw holes and a cable holding bracket
I used the original driver fresh air firewall hole to mount a disc brake booster which worked great !
I'll remount this duct /flapper assembly up and in in a free spot
Anyone ever redid one , or have one lying around ?

Ahh that wasn't it either ,after lots of intervention it turns out. A mechanic replaced my radiator cap with the wrong one ,it was on short and the coolest wouldn't develop any pressure. Now with. Correct cap runs fine
Next is to reconstruct th hot air choke tubes
The originial Is rotten and gone
I hear. From an old thread that the tube is closed off
At the bottom in the manifold
I don't want too take off the manifold ,am worried about. Drilling out the tube and getting metal filings in the cylinder
I have. A edmunds dual intake. And 2 strombeprg aero type carbs ,they have hot air chokes ,I got some 1/4" Copper tubing and. Fitting s to maker the hot airlines

Success! Triumph! Coolness!carefree driving !

After having big mystery overheat problem ;

After changing water pump and belt
Re recore radiator flush out
head gasket change
Checking heat distribution tube
Changing to and from water hoses and radiator hoses
New thermostat
Nothing helped ......
Changed to 12 v ,
Checked timing
Had valves adjusted
nothing ;
hot hot hot

Wrong radiator cap ,the brand new shiny one was the wrong part !easy ,
Balkamp 703-1411is correct size
If it's too short it doesn't seal and make any water pressure and the coolant blows out in 15-20 min
hurray

hey im talking to my self call the shrink ,unanticipated radiator gum up despite recant rebuild /recore was culprit!

Hi Im a happy convertee ,I have a chrysler 518-a behind the mighty thunderbolt ,,so its the 727 thats got an overdrive and torque converter lock, up that 727 users would convert to ,
theres a great how to by a company called PATC easily spotted on google

boy right about 62 you can feel it slip into overdrive i can go 70 at 1700 rpm!
it pops out back down if you go over an overpass or accelerate but settles back in after ,nice ,
on my 6-12 I just got a bolt in powergen AND A PERTRONIX 12 V POINT REPLACEMENT and went plug and play .i havent blown the starter yet but the headlights went without warning right away so im putting in 12 v bulbs and got a resister on ebay for the 6v tube radio
maby ill get a starter and have it rewound to have around for when the peppy 6 now12 v starter destroys itself ,right now all i have to do is look at the key and the thing starts !
I have a rebuild on the thunderbolt so the engine is stiff now ,we;l see how she feels after break in .
I also had gone for the 2 bbl to the 4 bbl 1951 option ,which was a big help going up hills ,but lusting for raw power , now have a dual 2 bbl intake on the car with the 288 head for compression jump
a dual exhaust would be a nice touch ,I heard legends about a dodge ram exhaust manifold that could be jimmied on with a little flange grinding
i should be gt od as long as we can get gas,maybe someone will come up with a nuclear steam engine attachment ,we have put probes on venus after all
getting front discs is a good nod if your freeway cruising especially if any city type drivers on the road with you

Hi ,
Well the Sierra ultramatic to 727 to 518 swap has been a hairy mess
I envy the 700 guys
The 6-12 v module to provide the 1 amp 12 v neg ground off the 6v pos system
to run the 45 ands 55 # pressure switches that lock the torc converter and cut in the overdrive didn't work at all it just got hot
So I bit the bullet and went 12 v neg ground

The x brace chopping to allow the extra trannie length was a lot o chopping
The shaft needs the Chrysler end at the front and the packard end at the back
The scrap guy didn't get the linkage with the trans I found to rebuild, so I went with an American shifter floor shift which looked good but requires an advanced degree in theoretical wave mechanics to assemble and no one in sales has a clue

There's an extremely helpful bunch in Alabama PATC who sell the adaptor kit from 727 to 518 a

The Sierra grove guys are out of biz now

You have to chop a hole in the floor and make a trap door to make a tranny filler and make the center hump taller
I tried it and maiden voyage ; NO SHIFT !,,

So I vote for the other swap the bengston one with the 700 r

The car waited so long to get this all sewn up that the radiator clogged up
so when cleaned it all goes back together I get to try to diagnose the shift deficit on my quest for the effortless freeway cruiser