Hi I did a Chrysler 518 od trans behind my 327 thunderbolt with a 288 head
Today's the first day it's been running
Ok major headaches ,wish I'd stuck with the ultramatic but I'm in it now
Challenges ,it's longer than the stubby ultramatic
Cso you not only have to shorten the shaft ( easy) but you have to tunnel the x brace ( tough) plus putting the motor trans in and out of the car with a thing that long is tough
Then you have switch issues
The 518 has 2 switches a ODD and a torque converter lock up these are 12 v - gr and your car is 6 v pos gr they are run by hydrolic pressure at two taps on the tyranny
also there is a vacuum switch
You also have to make the hump higher
I did all of this
Today first run the car didn't know what gear to go in and over heated
Oh well
I had a module that isolated itself and supplied 12 v neg to the tyranny and kept all of my pos gr 6v stuff ,it was really hot today so I guess it's shorted out ,also the vacuum is off of a carb port and may not have been strong enough to do the switch
I may go 12 v to fix this do I have to get a new starter?

get a napa group 4 fork lift battery ,you have to change the tray making a touch longer ( 30 min) but no longer have hot start problems ,think its#7202

Hi I need some advice ,I had my 327 rebuilt for the 52 touring sedan and bought hydrolic lifters for the kit .,very gradual process,the rebuild ,.6 over bore so the cylinders are noce and tight , now 2 yr later engine installed and lo and behold low compression ,=40# and on 3 cylinders ,none! ,i removed the covers on the side of the engine all of the valves are going up and down ,made sure the timing was on the correct stroke ,put a little break in oil in the cylinders ,spun the engine a few times ,still the same no compresssion on 3 cylinders and 40 on the rest .not enough for the engine to catch so im stalled .
stuck lifters? I think the engine may have had solid ones originally ,I think ( cant remember ) I got them from max merrit ,if not Kanter ,they sat waiting thier turn for the rebuild and then for the engine install
can I remove them withour taking the head off? i couldnt feel any bolts to loosen.looks like from your thread theres a spring to compress? does that let it be removd? sshould I put solids back in?big mystery!!

I was looking in my hot rod mag and saw an ad from Kanter that they had reissued new gas tanks for 51-54 packard cars ,when I called and ordered one the guy said he'd already sold a dozen of them .i had been frostrated trying to repair a flattened part under a persistantly leaking the drain bung

sierra grove packards is now out of buisness but other people make conversion plates ,i usedthe sierra grove plate to go straight to a chrysler 518 as many swap 727's to 518's to tget the over drive .theres two solenoids that you have on the 518
a lock out for the torque converter and an overdrive solenoid ,theyre 12 volt neg ground so theres a decision to make about 6v ,being a fool i keep the 6v and found a coversion module to allow 12 v neg ground solinoids to be used, so the low draw solenoids ll be fine ,I have an isolator switch and use a 6 v heavy forklift battery
ive had to relieve the floor pan hump over the transmission as the bell housing ended up being to o tall ,and had to channel out the massive packard x brace ,have to shorten the shaft 3 1/2 inches
soonill have a overdrive automatic 52 packard to drive forever !

Ps can I send a photo from my I phone to the site ? I had my 327 rebuilt and the valve seats ground it's an AWSOME site 16 valves didn't fit in the pic!

So what I want to know is if I can go to the hot rod shop and get a new Mallory distributer for the old l8 mill ? I'm running a pertronix pointless rotor and sensor that has been faultless ,replaced the vacuums advance which was fantastically better .i have a suspicion that the bushings / bearings are worn and that I might get some benefit from a new distributer ,some of the products for tractors tend to work nicely with the old pos ground straight 8 s

Hot rod magazine ( i think it was hot rod magazine ) at the end of last year featured a mcculloch blower on a l8 packard thunderbolt with an exotic fab 2 carb intake pictured on the bonneyville salt flats
It has a custom fab exhaust
I couldn't find an aluminum head so did the 288 on the 327 head swap for the compression jump and found an edmunds intake there's a company in Arizona empire that will cast you one but its 2 t's!
I put a 518 on my 52 200 , the usual mod Is a 727 Chrysler trans .but Sierra grove packards,
the guys that make the plates are going out of biz ( too old). the 727 is bolt up with jusy some mount and shaft changes ,but the 518 requires some fussing as it has electrical 12 v solenoid s that run an overdrive I figure that its worth it there's a company that makes a 6-12 v swapper module for the tranny so you can keep your 6 v if you feel the need for 6 v
I used the stock exhaust with a plate over the carb mount heat stove area
I retain the stock cam but the guy with turbo l8 said in his article that he had a special grind ,when I enquired a " bump " on the cam was suggested and could be modified off the original

I have a 52 with a leaky bung ,leaky bung can you imagine ,it's sounds like some embarrassing medical condition .i tried tightening the little drain nut but I bet some prior owner did that and spun the bung in the tank ,I tried sanding off the area and covering the whol area with epoxy but it sticks good works until the gas cooks the stuff and it peels off I tried draining the tank and repeated still has a teensy leak. If gas wasn't 5 million dlls a gallon I'd ignore it
I hate the thought of 500 for a tank and I bet a couple of 100 for shipping for a good tank with bung issues!

I have a 52 with a leaky bung ,leaky bung can you imagine ,it's sounds like some embarrassing medical condition .i tried tightening the little drain nut but I bet some prior owner did that and spun the bung in the tank ,I tried sanding off the area and covering the whol area with epoxy but it sticks good works until the gas cooks the stuff and it peels off I tried draining the tank and repeated still has a teensy leak. If gas wasn't 5 million dlls a gallon I'd ignore it
I hate the thought of 500 for a tank and I bet a couple of 100 for shipping for a good tank with bung issues!