One of the differences between the Eight and Deluxe Eight was the rear seat fold-down center arm rest. This car does not appear to have that feature, so I’m leaning toward the Eight model (aka Standard) for this car.

Max

As packardsix1939 said, two air filters were available . . . The standard item that looks quite like the one you have, and the optional oil bath filter. You will see a photo of the oil bath in the accessory catalog that packardsix1939 provided a link to. Your air filter and the one on my ’48 288 look quite similar, although the parts catalog list different part numbers. The steady rest (filter housing to cylinder head) looks identical. The optional oil bath air filter looks ‘horizontal’, but that portion is nothing more than ductwork/sound attenuation . . . the filtration is vertical, air flow upward at the portion of the filter that is mounted on the driver’s side of the car. Most of the volume on the standard air filter is for sound attenuation. The filtration is radially inward at the gauze. Your current air filter looks correct for the 2202 chassis standard configuration.

I don’t believe there is any difference in the air horn diameter 288 v. 327, so the difference between the two standard air filters may be the gauze height to keep the velocity (objectionable noise) about the same between the two configurations or tuning the attenuation feature at higher airflow. We can exchange information on diameters and heights of the standard filter configuration.

dp

Max;

I like your car . . . care to trade?

Your vehicle model information of 2275-9 xxxx indicates a 22nd series automobile sold in 1949. As Ross indicated that model designation is for a Super Eight Club Sedan. See the Model Information section of this site for more detail.

You have just a bit of 23rd series trim installed . . . be not anywhere near a ‘Frankenstein’ car. Look in the Model Information section, specifically the 23rd series entries. I think you will find the upper fender spears that are likely installed on your car.

Go back to the 22nd series and look at any model with the word “Custom”. That’s the trim near your rear tail lights. The lights appear to be correct. Navigate to the Photo Archive section and select 22nd series. There will be many examples of the Custom trim near the tail lights . . . and the trim for the Eight and Super Eight models. It looks like your car has Eight/Super Eight trim on the trunk lid, and Custom Eight trim at the tail lights . . . no big deal . . . don’t break-out the torches to storm the castle. Given the sales numbers for the 22nd series that trim could have been installed by the dealer at the direction of the soon to be the proud owner. By mid 1949 all of the parts on your car would available over the Packard parts counter. Consider that the front fenders could have been changed 70 years ago, for some other reason, and the problem statement was nothing more than ‘Do I fill the holes, or install the different trim?”.

Now for the photos you initially posted; I see a few blue hoses on the left side of the engine bay, and a bracket holding a hose end close to the battery . . . What are those? Something to think about when the weather tempers your driving enthusiasm; 6 volt cars do much better with stout battery cables, with crimped, or better yet soldered ends, and I believe ‘all black’ insulation was the standard for both cables. Also if you have a photo of the front of the car showing the details of the grill and bumper please post.

dp

The description reads, “1954 Packard with custom built 472 Cadillac drive train Arizona car new air-cond very clean” (aka son of Frankenstein) . . . so I suspect you are looking at a lot of late model GM parts. The steering column looks like it might be a modern ‘tilt’ unit.

dp

Chris, as others have said, prior to the early ‘50s the torque specification for the rear axle nut was ‘tighten securely’ . . . while the later guidance was 200 – 270 ftlbs for both the 3/4 inch and 7/8 inch thread geometries. I checked the recommend torque for a 3/4 inch fine thread bolt and found, 223 ftlbs for Grade 5, and 315 ftlbs for Grade 8, so the Packard torque recommendation is not out of line . . . given that the OEM was not constrained to just two particular heat treatments.

The plot thickens . . . most of us subscribe to the notion of a completely dry taper, but don’t mention thread lubricant, or the contact surface between the nut and washer. During production I believe the assembly was dry in all locations, but all surfaces, especially the surface between the nut and washer were ‘new’, that is free of any gouging from previous use. I renewed the washers with Grade 8 hardware, and ‘dressed’ the nut face with an oil stone before the first attempt to have a castellation align with the torque ‘in range’ I was lucky that I could install the cotter pin with the torque in range. After about 100-200 miles I re-checked and found that the torque was below the minimum, and the nut needed a bit more ‘dressing’ to achieve the torque ‘in-range’ and pin aligned. A loss of torque on a tapered hub is not uncommon during initial run-in. Tightening of the axle nuts can be done with the weight of the car on the wheels . . . emergency brake off. I prefer to back-off the service brake adjustment a bit, and then do the final adjustment of the rear brake after the axle nuts have been dealt with.

A 7 year old grandchild on the end of a four foot bar should be close to the correct torque.

Perhaps Jay could review these videos before he ventures out making one of his own.

Out of the Future (1954)

Engineering Gibberish

Ernie, Duane, and I will raise you 31 degrees on the temperature. In the ‘Valley of the Sun’, right now it’s something like 111°F . . . not all that bad as long as you’re in the shade. A Packard makes a wonderful umbrella to lie under. We've got a few more days left of the latest high pressure weather pattern, and then the temperature should back-off 4-6 degrees (it makes a significant difference).

Good luck with the '37.

dp

tsherry

I’m with OD, it’s axiomatic that for every gallon of fuel removed from the tank that a gallon of air must be allowed to enter. Even the modern cars, with a submerged fuel pump, will accomplish this, albeit via the carbon canister. Normally older cars have the vent the fuel cap, while the cap for a modern car does not have a vent . . . it’s sealed to allow the carbon canister to work. Assuming your car is now has an essentially unmodified fuel system the ‘filler’ cap should be vented.

Next subject: There are two types of electric fuel pumps that most of us use. One is a rotary vane pump (Carter for one), while the other is a solenoid ‘plunger’ type (Airtex for one). The ‘plunger’ type does NOT need to be powered all of the time. The rotary vane pump needs to be powered all of the time . . . or, every once and awhile the car will stall. Ask me, I’m the guy that owned a vane pump, and didn’t understand the ‘rules’! My ’48 would run normally for days and days, and then just decide to stall. After stalling just about every time at the same location I concluded that making a tight turn had something to do with it. And after I disassembled the pump it was clear that the fuel circuit can, and will be blocked by one of the vanes, but for a while the offending vane can allow fuel to pass. Taking a turn ‘pushed’ the vane into the offending position . . . every time
.
‘Junk’ in the tank or lines is also one of the usual suspects, but if you tripled checked that when you swapped the tank that is likely not the culprit
.
dp

Will;

GL-1 is used for the transmission, and overdrive if so equipped.
GL-5 is used in the differential.

Dp

Edit: In addition to JWL’s comment, GL-5 oil has anti-wear compounds containing sulfur and phosphorous compounds that will degrade brass, bronze and copper. Using GL-5 in a transmission that contains any such ‘yellow’ metals would be ill-advised.

Don;

With the ‘Tee’ bolt rotated 90° . . . I would suspect there’s an angle that the ‘tee’ will just slide through the slot on the frame. If it doesn’t then I bet the new one you’re about to make will.

dp