HHP
I would think Evapo-Rust would remove the 'red rust' and then allow a much better visual inspection. If what remains is a bunch of pits located where the rubbing block doesn't touch the cam then that's OK
DP

I’m thinking the rubbing block may not mind a few pits along the way, especially when the block is off of the cam.

Don
Would you consider dunking it in Evapo-rust and report back if the surface finish of the cam is acceptable?
Dp

Appears to be the known file name corruption during server migration. Seems some/many/all files with the extension ‘PDF’ were renamed to ‘dl_attachment.php’. You can download the PHP file and rename the extension to PDF. I think the original file name is lost.

dp

53 Cavalier

The spare tire is held by a threaded arm that pivots from the right side of the well. I’m not sure if the stud is intended to pass through one of the five lug holes or the central hole which would require a plate/large washer . . . my car has a plate much like the 22nd / 23rd series. A wing nut draws the spare essentially to the right side of the well. I know it’s the wrong model, but if you look at plate #152 in the parts book you will see a photo of the arm, group number 31.195. IIRC the threaded arm slips into a bracket welded to the truck floor pan, and a split pin keeps it in place. That design also ensures the thread arm will part company with the car at some point in time.

As Kev said the jack/lug wrench (perhaps including a wrench for the wheel shield/fender skirt and another for the spark plugs) was shipped with the car in a cardboard box. In the same era the GM products had a bracket that cradled the jack post, sans the base. The spare pinched the post from moving. Again in the GM world the jack base played the role of the plate/large washer.

I’m not sure why the wheel has a drain hole, but I envision if any water collected in the well and the temperature dropped below freezing the spare would be unavailable if needed. I don’t think dust ingress was considered as a key design consideration.

I carry the Packard bumper jack for display purposes only . . . at least that’s my fondest hope. In the event of the need to R&R a wheel/tire on the road I carry a bottle jack, actual two bottle jacks, including a few aluminum hockey pucks to help spread the point load on the car’s frame. Back to the bumper jack, I suspect there would be a situation where there will be insufficient clearance between the road and the frame to locate the bottle jack, so the bumper jack may be needed to provide said clearance, but under no circumstances would I lift the car with only the bumper jack. I also carry a wheel chock and a threaded stud to assist aligning the wheel to the brake drum.

dp

Mike;

Assuming you have already gone through the 4 engine tune-up items suggested by Carter, and you have the correct ‘tag number’ carburetor, then the hole in acceleration could be (emphasis on could) the follow two items.

Anti-percolator valve: There is an adjustment to coordinate throttle position to valve closure position. If the AP valve is adjusted such that the AP valve remains open at higher throttle positions the transition from the low speed to the high speed circuits will be leaner than expected. It’s a matter of degree in that if the AP valve is grossly open during transition the engine cannot accelerate above the low speed circuit (about 25 mph in 3rd gear). Much lower openings, including AP valve leakage, will produce a local lean condition that may be detectable. As a ‘war story’, I had an AP valve that seemed to have lost the closing spring tension. Destructive disassembly revealed a corroded spring that had failed. I took apart the other valve and it too had a corroded and failed spring, but that spring had ‘nested’ together and still closed the valve at a lower seat pressure. Note that the 111-19S anti-percolator arm will open/close the AP valve together, but each individual valve is adjustable. With one valve open/leaking and the other closed during transition may result in a minor lean condition limited to 4 cylinders. I currently have a set of sealed AP valves installed as a test, so far I haven’t been let down by the sealed valves, but then again I don’t have a lot of experience in hot restarts. Standard tooling may be used to make this adjustment.

Coordination between throttle position and the minimum metering rod position. This adjustment is conducted with a ‘special’ Carter tool’. The intent of this adjustment is to ‘override’ the stroke of the vacumeter piston as a function of throttle position, and avoid a lean condition. I’ve intentionally adjusted this feature to allow the aforementioned lean condition. What I found is the transition between the low and high speed circuits became compromised . . . stumbled through the range with roughness. From this experience I’ve concluded that the Carter design makes the flow area of the main jet significantly small during idle operation, and then increases the main jet flow area just before main jet flow is required for the transition to the high speed circuit. Depressing the throttle will normally overcome most adjustment errors in this area. I’ve also richened the transition zone with the addition of a shim washer in the vacumeter piston, with would take effect when the minimum metering rod position is not in play.

I’ve not included the accelerator pump in this discussion because you indicated the hole was in the middle of accelerating. Please give us a better idea of when the difficulty is occurring and remember the difficultly may not be carburetor related.

dp

Rich49, thanks for the feedback on the performance of the new radiator. As a follow-up question (or three), what was the outside air temperature, was the 50 mph run on the flat, or was there a grade, and does the thermostat have a one inch (25mm) diameter valve?

Just as an observation, if that is an Airtex fuel pump in the latest photo, we normally mount them below the fuel level as close to the tank as possible. The left frame rail has a convenient mounting hole just ahead of the rear wheel . . . plus the fuel line is right there.

dp

Waynecain; there are ‘disconnect switches’ intended for this purpose that have threaded binding posts. What you need is a cable that has the specific polarity SAE terminal for the battery end, and then a terminal for the switch . . . likely a ring end. Follow that up with a second cable to go from the switch, again likely a ring end terminal, and then to the specific location on the engine where the original cable attached. That second cable will likely have a ring end at both ends. You’ll need to do some digging for a disconnect switch suitable for the current associated with a 6 volt system. Avoid any product that doesn’t state both the surge and continuous current capability of the switch. As a rule of thumb, modern cars of a few years back used 4 gauge battery cables, and I believe the 6 volt systems used something more like 1 gauge. A 1 gauge cable has twice the area (1/2 of the resistance per foot) of a 4 gauge cable. Typically the mounting bracketry will be locally fabricated.

I happen to disconnect the positive side on my Packard, but the decision of which cable to disconnect is up to you. My switch is purely mechanical, meaning it is activated by my hand, not a remote electrical switch, although after getting into the car ready to go, and then finding out I had not closed the cut-off switch is a bit frustrating. I have another 6 volt application that instead of a disconnect switch I remove the positive battery cable.

dp

Thanks to HH56’s diagram I found that my ‘Backing Light’ had been installed incorrectly for perhaps 20+ years. What I found was the light had been installed in the ‘body grille’ configuration, while the non-grille manner would be appropriate for my Eight. I bet when the fellows were re-assembling the car circa 2000, the concept of having a chrome bit facing the inside of the trunk was found to be unreasonable. I know I had to force myself to put the ‘shinny’ stuff into the trunk.

dp

Rich49, if you have the time please let us know what the application is for the aluminum radiator, also some idea as to the performance.

dp