Ford truck radiator. Some mods required but they are NEW rad's available at auto parts stores.


https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=14541&forum=4&post_id=147343#forumpost147343

There is a calculation for compression reading.

A QUIK rule of thumb is CR x ATM.

1 ATM = APPROXIMATELY 15 psi (that is atmosphereic pressure) times the CR.

So the 7.5 x 15 = 112 psi compression..

8.5 x 15 = 127 psi compression.

NOTE that there is somekind of a fudge factor or other relatively minor factor added to the equation for CR > 12:1.
Maybe google it if u really need extremely accurate calculation.

I'm not 100% sure this will work:

Run the ground wire for tach directly to + post of battery.

Run power wire for tack directly to - post of battery.

Then connect tach wires to ignition coil.

Seems like i tried this some 6 or 7 years ago on a SIX volt + grnd system and it worked just fine. The tach is a SUN tach, 12v about 20 or 25 years old. The tach did't care that it only got 6 volts and i think i just wired the power wires to Battery directly as stated above.

SIlicone brake fluid:

Maybe need to do some research OUTSIDE of the Packard world. Does the silicone cause problems with any of the OTHER makes and models of cars of 'yesrteryear"????

How many tri-5 chevies are running silicone with no problems??? How many fords after 1939???? MoPars since 1924 or 1928.

Is it ONLY Packard that has alleged "problems" with silicone??

The devil is in the DETAILS!!! And what ever success or failure is observed in the rest of world outside of Packard.

Think about it.

Whatever type of brake fluid u decide to use probably makes no difference for the BTV anyway.

There seems to be a generaly accepted service schedule for the bTV:

1. Drain and flush entire brake system at least once a year and fill with new fluid.

2. Send BTV every 3 to 5 years to a "qualified" rebuilder for a complete rebuild.

So, for all intents and purposes then it may not make any difference what type of fluid is used. The BTV is a SHORT service life, high maintenance power/MC unit.

Follow Ross' advice in post 6 above.

I've been running silicone now for at least 12 years and 20K miles. NO PROBELMS!!! However i am using an 84 Ford power unit and and 66 Mustang master cylinder. The rest of the 56 Exec is stock brake system.

Regarding post #25, the opel Admiral.

Was that actualy BUILT in Germany or the US and then shipped to Germany???
Either way, with SBC and Powerglide and the general look of the car it is nothing more than the US built Chevy Nova (Chevy II). A Nova with just some ginger bread trim to make it look like something special.

As for Renault there was the LeCar and i think Alliance (bigger car).

In the 1980's i worked on the AMC tracking and distribution system for AMC/Renault partnership. It was nothing but an abortion gone bad.

IIRC Renault had some the highest sales of any car in Europe at that time and for many years.

But quite frankly, for the US market/service demand or just about French or Italian car was simply not up to US customer/driving demands.


As for Audi. Circa 1975 -1980 time frame (Audi Fox) was a piece of shit car. Or here in the US it was. IIRC many of the Fox simply wore out at about 40K miles.

But they were real popular with many people that today would be described as having a an iPhone8 mentality.

Directly to the right side of the AC housing there is what appears to be a small battery and somekind of an electronic circuit board or something. What is that for???

I agree with Ross's post above. The Tandem system is much to do about very little. Unless u plan to convert to disk which is nothing but much to do about nothing.

Maybe a POWER brake conversion with single cylinder would be more benficial but would most likely reuire a brake pedal change relo the power brake to the firewall in someway.

Relative to the original post:
I would not let 'oil pump" issues sway me away from buying any Packard.
Altho there mite be people who inntend to buy a classic car expecting a perfect engine and do not want to deal with any major internal engine problems. Such people probably need to find a different hobby. i.e. avoid vintage vehicles completely.


In terms of the oiling issues of the V8 it is Owen Dyneto above that says it best: " ...there is no simple anaysis that explains everything...."

HOWEVER, the Olds pump conversion seems to solve the problems rather fast.

BOTTOM LINE: IT is quite possible that any deficencies of the OEM V8 pumps were simply due to a lack of quality control AT THE FACTORY. A quality control problem that did NOT necessarily effect every pump but has obviously effected ENOUGH pumps to cause numerous complaints.

But the Olds coversion seems to be the quickest, cheapest and most reliable solution for the v8 oiling problems, espeialy the lifter clacking.


Let me put it this way:
If u buy the car and it exhibits no oiling problems then there is not a problem and don't fix it.

IF is DOES have oiling problems, especialy lifter clatter, then do the Olds conversion.

Here. let me put it a third way:
If there isn't a problem, then don't fix it.
If there IS a problem, then fix it with the Olds pump conversion.