Re: Std 8 engine rebuild - 1929 or 1936?
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Dear Malcom:
None of the parts are interchangible. The 6th series Speedster used a hopped up 384ci Custom 8 motor with higher compression, hotter cam, and different carburetor. Although not documented, based on my experience, I also think they had a very expensive crankshaft that was far more stout than otherwise.
Posted on: 2012/8/22 6:50
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Re: 1950 Packard Eight Destined For Racing
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Oh well, back during the 55 mph speed limit days cars like that made great second cars. I drove a few 288's that ran fantastic. Lots of pep, good ride quality, ran great.
Posted on: 2012/8/21 15:06
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Re: REAR SEAT SPEAKER
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Dear Ron:
They must be doing something wrong. When I was a kid I was always hooking speakers up to radios by the boxfull. I still have one that I use on the television set. I found a transformer that doubles as a half to full wave ground for the antenna. It totally improves reception and sound quality. I would check the resistance of the front Packard speaker. Maybe it has some crazy resistance like 16 ohms. Speakers need to be impedance matched. Although, I was never able to get tubes to light up like light bulbs by adding speakers.
Posted on: 2012/8/21 14:56
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Re: Grease Cap
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No problem with epoxy. Just heat the cap carefully with propane and the epoxy gives up the ghost.
Posted on: 2012/8/21 14:41
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Re: Grease Cap
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Dear Paul:
If the cap is falling off then it will also leak. Go to the auto store and buy some Permatex #1 hard setting gasket sealer. Glue the thing on with that. Or you can use epoxy given meticulous cleaning. If you take the thing to a good parts store they may be able to rustle you up a similar unit as well. Those are getting hard to find because alot of these franchise joints are staffed by people who are hired because they are amicably dumb.
Posted on: 2012/8/21 7:45
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Re: Gear Lube and Bronze/Brass Redux
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Dear Pat:
You do not have to worry about EP additives in your transmission. It is all steel. However, the unit requires SAE 160w summer and 90w winter. Some people put 250w in them, but Packard warned against too heavy an oil - especially in winter. I don't know how 85w-140 performs, but you can get 160w from Lubriplate or PittPenn. For the case of Synchro transmissions, I tested copper in GL-5 and found that it did react. However, I usually found that most of those transmissions were running for years with EP in the transmissions so whatever damage was to be done had already occurred. For cases of shot synchros the GL-5 seemed to improve shifting, but the synchro transmissions are all living on borrowed time which is why I like the non-synchro series Packards best. Also, modern EP is less reactive than the old stuff, but a call to Mobil found they concurred that GL-5 is still reactive. The Military spec for GL-5 being bronze tolerant notwithstanding.
Posted on: 2012/8/21 7:32
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Re: NAPA carb kits.
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Before condemning gasoline, here is a little lab test.
a) fill a graduated cylinder part way with gasoline b) add 10% tap water and shake c) the change in water volume separated is the alcohol, the remainder is pure gasoline. d) set the pure gasoline aside and soak the suspected parts in sealed container. e) if the parts are still affected the problem is not with alcohol My experience with carb kits in the old days was that some of them worked for a year or two and then crapped out, although I put one in my old 61 Ford and it was great, but I don't recall if it had a diaphram pump or a piston pump. The Packard kits with leather pumps sometimes didn't do so good either and I found myself putting the old piston back in because there was too much resistance and the power valve spring would be overwhelmed. Then I saw people putting a screw stop to lock out the power valve spring which resulted in less than full throttle being available. So we were always running into problems with carburetor kits. Please note the above test requires time. I did some of these long term tests on DexCool anti-freeze and GL-5 reactivity to copper and the results were very illuminating.
Posted on: 2012/8/20 16:21
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Re: How do I advance the timing on my '49 Deluxe 8?
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Dear NC:
Maybe the car isn't running because the timing is so far off it won't fire. You can remove the hood by releasing both sides with the hood down and having two people lift it off. From there you can look for the timing marks on the damper. They may be hard to find. Mark them at 6 degrees and the line up with the distributor using a test light and rotating the distributor clock wise until the test light goes out. Bolt everything up and recheck with the motor running.
Posted on: 2012/8/20 15:23
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Re: 1930 734 Speedster on the auction block
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I don't know the particulars about the cars the Doc had. He had that stuff a way way back. Once he brought in a nice original 526 with a motor noise that I adjusted out of it. It was an education because it had 8300 miles on it.
However, you should be able to check the facts by contacting the museum librarian who will check on it for a fee. I only know Doc had the cars because I inquired to an old timer about the Victoria in Turnquist's book and was told "That's Hoeschbaker's car. He had a pair of them." But if you really want a chase, supposedly there was a boattail on a 745 chassis in New Jersey. It was owned by a nut who had a lot of unusual stuff. I don't know his name but I did know people who knew the guy and heard about the thing from a couple of people.
Posted on: 2012/8/19 18:32
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false-false