If it's rusted trying to force it without a penetrant might break it. I had an old Ford and freed the thing up using penetrating oil and no problems afterward.

When the car has dual exhaust and a stuck open or missing riser, I used to stick a rag in one side and let the car warm up that way. Drive a few miles and take the rag out.

Sometimes those accelerator pumps stick in the bore. The workaround is to use a stronger spring. The external spring holds the dust cover. Too strong an internal spring can inhibit throttle return. The spring on the actuating lever demonstrates full application of the pump prior to full throttle and opening of the power valve when equipped. If the pump is sticking the lever spring will expand prior to application of the pump.

However, hesitation problems often are assumed to be problems with the pump when in reality the main jet aerator passages are clogged. This requires use of a special jet wrench which should be handled by an experienced rebuilder.

Here is another one that is floating around the Norse.

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Is the car still using the vacuum tank? If not, is the new needle and seat calibrated to handle higher pressure than gravity feed?

There is supposed to be a bleed passage that pulls fuel above the throttle plate at idle the same way as idle air bleeds on a downdraft carburetor. If that is clogged the motor will load during idle.

You can buy a dial indicator with a magnetic base and use that to check runout.

Those cranks can bend if stored laying on the ground rather than standing on end, or by beating on those motors. They also can crack.

With the senior cars those problems seemed to begin showing up as Packard increased the horsepower by 1933. One reason I never beat on those motors.

If I was in the same situation I would put a 288 in it. It won't have the low end, but the engine mounting is the same design and parts are plentiful. Packard was going downhill with everybody else because you could pull one of the earlier cars out of a swamp and they would run. Not as good as low mileage, but they would go down the road if you didn't beat on them.

Of course, I'm not interested in driving those things more than 45-50 mph given every time I read about a celebrity millionaire dying in a car wreck I know they are driving some big dinosaur and not a little Honda Fit.

One of the Banachek cars had a Chrysler flathead in it.

What?

Doubt it exists.

The Hirsch paint story goes like this: Back in the late 1950's and early 60's the guy who did Billy's 745 was on the CCCA Caravan committee and would stop at every auto parts store and old dealership on the route and buy their entire stock of anything Packard. One of the things he had was a can of that paint.

That is where the Hirsch color came from.

Lots of Goodyear and Firestones. US Royal had a bad reputation so the application as a spare probably was done by someone who wanted a cheap one for that purpose.

That clarifies the issue. If you took the return spring off the pedal should be somewhat lower than the brake pedal. That is the pedal free play.

If you are lucky the clutch rod is wrong or needs to be adjusted. If that is the case clutch action should be partial and shortening the rod will bring the pedal height up. If you are missing the big round ball adjusting nut you may have the same symptom and will need to improvise a test mock up for clutch action.

If the car was previously completely disassembled there are spacers of different widths that will affect things if not in correct order. However, a quick check for internal issues is to disconnect the clutch rod and pull the lever against the fingers. It should approximately be perpendicular to the clutch housing. If it pulls way back before hitting the clutch fingers you have an internal problem.

Here is a picture of a 32 where you can make out the position of the clutch lever in the resting position. I don't have a picture of a 35-37, but the principle is the same.

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