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Board index » All Posts (BlackBeerd)




Re: If a beginner asked for help, what model would you recommend, and why?
#21
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BlackBeerd
First thing would be to find out how good of a mechanic the guy is.

I bought a sold a few cars over the years. For me, it seem mechanical ability is dropping off, fast. I'm finding cars that have been worked on by the clueless until they are completely hosed up.

For example, my Corvair was barely running and was not Realy safe to drive with the way the brakes were. I got that car cheap. I spent about 6 hours going through it from one end to the other and spent $35 tuning it up. It's now a wonderful little driver. But, the guy I bought it from did everything just a little wrong until the point was reach that it was worthless to him because he couldn't fix it.

If a guy is a good mechanic, he can buy anything and do ok. If he has to job out all the work, buy something that is done already.

Posted on: 2013/5/26 9:51
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Cheeze Head paint job
#22
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BlackBeerd
I worked on the car a little last night. I'm not sure it's worth it. I might be parting it out. :(

Posted on: 2013/5/26 9:37
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Cheeze Head paint job
#23
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BlackBeerd
I was wrong on the model. It's a 2462, which is the 200. The tag says the paint code is X, which is black.

The trim code is 63, but I don't know what that means. Anyone? Or a link to some of the fine .pdf files that are on this sight.

Posted on: 2013/5/24 19:57
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Cheeze Head paint job
#24
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BlackBeerd
I got it home late last night and didn't have time to look it over too well. It's a 2402. I'll update more later.

Posted on: 2013/5/23 6:42
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Cheeze Head paint job
#25
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BlackBeerd
It's now mine. :)

Posted on: 2013/5/18 18:31
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Cheeze Head paint job
#26
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BlackBeerd
I saw that on craigslist last week. I almost bought it just to save it from the humiliation.

Posted on: 2013/5/18 12:03
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: 327 sputtering under acceleration
#27
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BlackBeerd
Dwell is a function of the point gap, wear block and points cam. If you set the points to specs but the dwell is off, there is something wrong.

First, see if there is any wiggle to the distributor shaft. If there is, you need new bushings. You will never get a good running engine with an ignition system that is bouncing all over the place.

Second, take a good look at the points cam. The points wear block of the points isn't full width of the cam. So it wears in the middle.

If those look good, put in a new set of points. 5000 miles is enough to wear down the wear block. It's called a wear block for a reason.

The dwell reading is more important than the points gap.

Posted on: 2013/5/17 6:32
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Potential 327 overbore questions
#28
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BlackBeerd
While yes, a larger displacement will get you more power, most of the improvement you will get will come from an improved ring seal.

The '54 Super Clipper 327 put out 165hp, or 2ci per horsepower. Adding 11ci should get you 6hp, all other things being equal.

Posted on: 2013/5/9 8:28
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: 54 359 idle (?)
#29
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BlackBeerd
Download the service manual PDF and take a look. This is covered in the fuel section.

Posted on: 2013/4/21 6:43
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: 54 359 idle (?)
#30
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BlackBeerd
With a dead cold engine, if you open the throttle slightly, the choke should fall closed completely. Also, the throttle stop screw should be on the fast idel cam. The choke plate should be able to pushed open like 3/8 of an inch without touching the throttle. When the engine is warmed up, the choke should be pulled open completely. And slightly opening the throttle will let the fast idel cam fall out of the way.

That took longer to type on the iPhone than it takes to check.

Posted on: 2013/4/20 13:49
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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