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Board index » All Posts (packard47)




Water Distribution Tube
#11
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Mark Graber
Hello Everyone,
I'm attempting to remove the tube from a 356, probably for the first time in a long time. It's stuck really well. Other posts suggest working a thin metal strip along the edges to free it. Tried that and can only get about half-way through to the back.

My next thought is to use something thicker, perhaps a metal bar about 1/8 thick or so to break the seal between the tube and block. Something I can tap with a hammer. I have a new tube so ruining the old one is OK, but my concern/nightmare would be breaking it and having part of it stuck in the block.

What do you guys think?

Posted on: 2022/2/24 17:36
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Re: Hydraulic valve lifters
#12
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Mark Graber
Josef,
A year or so ago I purchased some lifters from Max Merritt.
They were rather expensive as I recall. Good Luck!
Mark

Posted on: 2020/12/31 13:20
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Re: Wes's Maroon 1947 Custom Super Clipper
#13
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Mark Graber
Thanks Wes for the kind words. It has been a couple of years now, but Max Merritt sent me a kit containing the bushings and some of the washers needed to rebuild the shifter. Might be worth a phone call to see what they still have.
Good Luck,
Mark

Posted on: 2020/8/12 22:57
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Re: 2126, some assembly required, batteries included
#14
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Mark Graber
Brace in place....

Attach file:



jpg  (224.90 KB)
4217_5e84d04eb66c7.jpg 1920X1440 px

Posted on: 2020/4/1 12:33
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Re: Brake pedal removal / help appreciated!
#15
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Mark Graber
Jason,
My '47 is a different design, but if you haven't already, I would take a look at the Part Diagram Plate #63 in the Parts list on this site. Doesn't show very clearly, but might give you some clues until someone else chimes in. From the diagram, it looks to me that the zerk end should have a c-clip or something to hold that end in place. I see the parts list calls for 1.30655 "retaining ring".
Good luck,
Mark

Posted on: 2019/9/2 22:56
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Re: Brake adjustment
#16
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Mark Graber
I had to walk away from this project for a while. Meantime, I obtained four NOS drums and had the shoes arced using the Speedwell Garage method. Thanks Ross, my machinist says it worked great! I also procured a couple of NOS anchor pins to try out.

However, much to my disappointment, my adjustment problems continue. No matter which method I use, either Ross's or a feeler gauge, I cannot get the secondary shoe equalized. I get drag at the bottom of the shoe, and clearance at the top. The anchor pin reaches maximum throw without moving the top of shoe close enough to the drum. The problem is at all four brakes.

I purchased the shoes from Max and I suppose it is possible, but very unlikely that I have the wrong shoes.

Guidance and ideas from you guys would be much appreciated.

Mark

Posted on: 2019/7/9 19:54
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Re: Brake adjustment
#17
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Mark Graber
Thanks for the interest guys. No skimping here - if you ever looked at my stack of parts and labor bills...the shoes are brand new, bonded not riveted, so a shim is not an option as far as I know.

Have you guys ever tried to find a place to arc your shoes? I called nearly a dozen shops, AACA club friends, etc. Seems almost nobody does that anymore, especially up here. Internet search reveals widespread difficulty finding that service. Apparently, modern drum brake users replace the drum and brake shoes as a pre-arced set or let the shoes "wear in", with frequent adjustments till they do.

I might be able to find a shop in the lower 48 and ship all 4 sets of drums and shoes down there and back. Don't ask about shipping costs.

For folks in my situation, my research found several recommendations to "wear in" the shoes, which is the approach I am going with.

The other three wheels center up nicely, with less clearance at the middle of the shoe, as I would expect. So, I'm going to try a new anchor pin for the problem wheel and see if that works.

Thanks for the interest and input fellas.

Mark

Posted on: 2019/6/2 19:14
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Brake adjustment
#18
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Mark Graber
Hi everybody,
I am trying to finish a brake job on my '47 custom super. I am at the final adjustment phase and I am having trouble centering the shoes. I've read Ross's advice and consulted the manual and Motor's.

Here's the problem. I've started with the right front wheel. I keep ending up rotating the anchor pin screw 90 degrees forward. At this point there is a lot of clearance at the top of the shoe and none at the bottom of the secondary shoe.

Am I right n thinking that the eccentric screw is at its maximum effective position to move the top of the shoe toward the drum?

I could not find anyone to arc the shoes and they are undersize, but even so, shouldn't I be able to get the clearance equalized between the top and bottom of the shoe?

Wondering if the eccentric has worn such that it no longer will push the top of the shoe far enough?

Suggestions/guidance much appreciated.
Mark

Posted on: 2019/5/31 12:38
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Re: arcing brake shoes
#19
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Mark Graber
Thanks OD for sharing your knowledge. You know what they say about the internet.
Shoes are not riveted, so will have to arc them. Appreciate the help,
Mark

Posted on: 2019/4/28 19:25
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arcing brake shoes
#20
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Mark Graber
First time doing a brake job and wondering about arcing the shoes. I've read that the shoes should make contact at their center first, and then the shoe flexes to make full contact at both ends of the shoe. That tells me that the arc of the shoe results in a smaller circle than the drum.

When I hold one end of a new shoe against the drum, there is a resulting gap of .035-.040 at the other end of the shoe. Is that acceptable such that the shoe will wear in? I've read about a method of using sandpaper adhered to the inside of the drum and sanding the shoe accordingly. Don't want to try this unless I have to.

What do you guys think? Thanks, Mark

Posted on: 2019/4/28 17:57
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