Wow, 44 (above) here in Palmer, AK (that's Alaska not Arkansas). No kiddin'. Guess I will get by with just one pair of pajama bottoms today.
Keep warm you guys,
Mark

I understand that on the WGD there is a sheet metal disc that separates the mechanism side and the thermostatic side of the choke mechanism.

Does the WDO also have a similar disc? If so, what is the part number? I'm not seeing it in the parts book, but that doesn't mean its not there. (WDO-531-S).

Thanks,
Mark

OK, I am reporting back. This is starting to sound like a Gus episode.

Just to summarize, I'm chasing a rough idle and discovered low compression on no.8. Leak down indicated exhaust valve.

Pulled the head and no. 8 exhaust valve. The valve was very slightly burned. My mechanic touched up the valve and the seat. Then we found that the lifter had a stuck check valve. We installed a new lifter and checked clearance. We thought problem was solved. Reinstalled head.

Started up this afternoon. Still had lifter noise and the miss. Pretty much same as before.
Ran the engine for a few minutes and still noisy with no smoothing out. ugh..

Checked the compression on No. 8 and it was almost 100.

Maybe some of the engine guys can point me in the right direction to go from here. I know where the nearest watering hole is....

Thanks guys,
Mark

You should be able to hear me groan all the way from the far north.
Thanks Ross.

The education process continues. I appreciate your help with this simple stuff...

My mechanic/machinist will be over on Saturday to help pull the valve. I proceeded to clean the carbon on the engine side. I also did some research on burned valves and their causes, etc.

The offending exhaust valve looks to me like it may be burned, at least to some extent. It looks scorched compared to the others.

I understand we will know for sure when we examine the valve, but a burned valve appears probable, and likely caused by the carbon interfering with the seating process.

Would you folks agree with this observation and preliminary conclusion?

Attach file:

---

  (357.50 KB)


  (307.44 KB)

I've got a couple of follow ups:

I had planned to disassemble the valves on No. 8 only - is that advisable?

Cleaning the carbon from the head was kinda fun, but what would be a good method to clean the engine side? I'm thinking a rag with solvent- (carb cleaner worked well on the head). Bringing each cylinder to TDC for access would make things easier. Sound good?
Thanks,
Mark

Thanks OD for confirming that I am on the right track and haven't missed something obvious. I may have addressed the rich mixture with the choke adjustment. Going forward I'll read the plugs frequently.
Mark

Thanks V8.

After break-in, been using Rotella 10-30.

I use either a Chevron or Shell product probably from the same refinery - same stuff as far as I am concerned.

I had my 356 rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. While addressing a rough idle and some tappet noise I found:
1. way too much choke - adjusted, but still rough idle.
2. compression test revealed No. 8 is low. 90 on 1-7, 40 on number 8. Leak down revealed exhaust valve leak.

Pulled the head. I think this much carbon is excessive and could be the cause of the valve issue. No. 8 is gunked up the worst.

I'm attributing the carbon to the choke issue now resolved because:
I have a good mix of highway vs. city miles. Occasional 70mi highway trips.
Using a relative hot plug - Autolite 3136.

Do you folks think I am missing something here?

Thanks,
Mark

Attach file:

---

  (168.36 KB)


  (148.78 KB)

Packard Newbie,
Sounds like you might be missing the bimetal spring and cover. My car was. The helical spring is an anti-rattle spring. Do a site search here and you will find several discussions and illustrations.
Mark