Thanks, Howard. Which coil (relay) are you referring to as the cutout relay? Is it the top one where the bat and gen wires attach across from each other, as shown in the Upper Coil picture, or the lower one where the fld wire attaches, the lower coil? If it is the one on top, as you see that one is closed when there is no current applied to it and the lower one is open when there is no current. This is a VRR-4005A voltage regulator which I was told was compatible with my '37 120C. The parts book says that we need part number 316500, VRD-4005A, which I have not been able to find anywhere. I've also read that the VRD-4001A is compatible, but there is no place in the parts book that says that. When looking at the wiring schematic for the VRR-4005A, it shows the bat line attaching to the left terminal (Upper Coil pic) but when I do and the regulator is installed on the body as required, I get the current draw without anything other wiring being attached. I know I'm missing something here but have yet to figure out what.
Thanks again for all of your expertise and help.

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Thanks for you input. I have every line to everything disconnected including the generator and yes, I do see the relay between the battery connection and generator armature connection closed, which is what I originally thought was causing the short according to the schematic. I cannot connect the battery directly to polarize the regulator because I'm afraid the current draw will damage something else, i.e. burn something up. I can insert an insulator in the relay opening those contacts between these two connectors and not get the current draw, which is what I was pursuing first. I had to purchase a replacement voltage regulator which, I think, came off of a '38 or later model. I did not polarize that regulator at that time, but am pretty sure that that relay was closed with I received that particular regulator.
Thanks, again for your input. I'll investigate further in obtaining a regulator that is correct for this model.

Hello. I finally was able to spend some time and track down the source of my current draw through the voltage regulator. With everything connected as it should be, including the mounting bolts attached, I get a current draw, i.e. a short circuit, which shows up on my voltmeter. My current regulator only has three posts to which the lines are connected; Battery (Black), Generator Armature (Red) and Generator field (Brown). Am I correct in assuming that the Generator Ground line would now be attached to the bottom bolt which connects to the frame of the regulator? Also, am I correct in assuming that the ground line from the generator to the regulator is in no way supposed to allow current to flow back through the body? What is happening now is that when attaching the bottom bolt on the regulator to the body, even without this ground line attached, this bolt is actually touching the body and I get the current draw, which I don't think is supposed to happen. The nut that, I think, is supposed to be insulated from the body to attach this bolt is no longer there, thus causing the short. I have a couple of ideas on how to correct this, one of them being to bore out the hole on the body a bit more so that I can fix an insulating sleeve over the bolt and then place an insulating washer on this bolt so that the nut does not make contact. Or, am I barking up the wrong tree?
Again, I thank you for your expertise. I hope you have or have had a wonderful holiday!

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To all of you, my thanks. I'll definitely use this information that you so graciously gave to me.

Thx. Duly noted and taken to heart!

Hi. I had a short that caused my horns to blare for a few hours while I was not at home and it seemed to damage the smaller of my horns. The larger one still works but the smaller one does not. Does anyone know of someone who might be able to repair this horn for me or even purchase another one?
Thanks.

Hello, all. I found a place near me that has contacts with a shop in California that water-cut locking plates for my '37 and they fit perfectly. The place near me is Brown Welding and Machine in Bells, TX, which is about 10 miles from me. I gave him one of the old ones to copy. You can do a Google search and find him. So, if you need locking plates, either send Mr. Brown a plate for him to scan or a scan of your own with the specifications. I paid $65 for a dozen plates. Good luck and happy Packarding!

Thanks to both. I shall look into that.

I had to remove the drive shaft from my '37 120C Touring Sedan and now that I am ready to reinstall it, I was wondering if anyone knew where I might obtain the locking plates that hold the bolts in place.

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Hello, again. I've followed your procedures on testing this and using the 100W bulb gives me a little "click" when touching to ground. So, I think that circuit is complete. When checking the resistance in the circuits, I also get close to those values you gave me. I've also gone into the Moss video on checking the generator output where he connected a lead to the field terminal and to a known power source with the voltmeter attached, I think to that power source. We then see if the voltage rises and if not, then the generator is not producing any output. However, I've looked at the other videos to see where the other leads might be attached and could not find any telling me how to set up that particular test. Does anyone have any clue as to how that is actually done. What is connected where to activate the generator field to produce output?
Thanks again.