Where might I go to obtain the materials to replace the batting and waterproof canvas to install a new roof insert on my 120C Touring Sedan. I did read the forum entry concerning the convertible trim strips, so I'll see about eight getting some manufactured from my source for my vehicle.
Thanks to all for your help.

Thanks, Chris. I'll also take that with me today when I go do some more troubleshooting. BTW, I did locate the gauge information in my 36-37 Service Manual. I had missed it initially because I only looked at the index at the front and didn't see anything about furl gauges so thought I didn't have that information,
Again, I thank everyone for your help and expertise.

Thanks to both of you very much. I'll take this with me tomorrow and continue my troubleshooting. Again, I thank you.

I would like some advice to see if I have explored all possibilities. My fuel gauge is inoperable.
I dropped the gas tank and removed the float mechanism. I then tested the impedance within the mechanism and recorded the ranges between .10 ohms and 121.4 ohms. If course, the higher value should cause the fuel gauge to register empty.
I then took the fuel guage and attached one side to the negative pole of the battery and the other side to the input line of the float mechanism. I connected the frame of the float mechanism to the positive side (ground) of the battery.
Upon the movement of the float itself, the fuel gauge does not move. However, if I take the line off of ground and reattach it, I do see slight vibration of the needle.
I tried reversing the lines on the fuel gauge and the needle stayed stationary without any movement even when detaching the line and reattaching.
So, I wanted to see if there might be another path I could follow other than this one to test the gauge before shipping it out to be rebuilt. Thanks to all.

Thanks and I shall definitely do that. As I said before, I'm afraid of damaging the gauge perenantly. I did see the screws on the back of the plate and was able to remove the gauge from the instrument cluster without hurting it.
Thanks for your input and yes, I'll go with your suggestion.

I need to send my temp gauge to Max Merritt for rebuild but have no idea how to remove the tube from the back of the gauge. I can remove the entire assembly, but Fred Bruner at Max Merritt said they just needed the gauge. They replace the bulb and tube along with rebuilding the gauge.
Does anyone have instructions on how to remove this tube from the temp gauge? If not, I'll just send Fred the entire assembly and have their tech worry about it.
Thanks, as always.

Thanks for the pics. I'll definitely put them in my library. What I really could use now is pictures of how the headliner itself is installed with the metal bows. I've looked at the original upper framework and could not see anywhere these metal bows attach. Also, I could not get them to fit with the upper framework in place. So, right now I am at a standstill on this part.
You said you had a 120 parts car. Would you possibly have in these parts the gear shaft to the passenger side front wind wing? It is the geared piece that fits up into the wing frame and down into the frame. It then engages with the worm gear that is turned when the wing handle is turned to open or close the wing. Mine is missing two teeth so the wing will not close completely.
Again, thanks for the pics.

I am finally getting back to this. Does anyone out there have pictures or diagrams of how the upper bows on the headliner are installed. When I obtained my car, they were just sitting there in the body without any indication of how they need to be installed.
Again, I thank everyone for their help and information.

Does anyone know where I might obtain an automatic choke for my Stromberg EE14?
Thanks

There should be the part number molded into the upper part of the back. Do you see that number and if so, what is it? Also, if it does match the one I need, how much would you want for it?
Thanks for the quick response.