Of course I would not name names until I had something from personal experience to say, but I definitely am fishing to know sources for GOOD pinion seals. 311926

No. The yoke is unbolted from the pinion shaft prior to being able to remove the pinion seal. The outside of the pinion yoke (also referred by some as the U-joint yoke) rides against the inside of the pinion seal. I am by no means an expert on 49's, or mechanical repairs, but I suspect the procedure is the same on your 49? On my car, it was a matter of separating the u-joint from the differential (at the pinion/ujoint yoke), unbolting the yoke (big wrench, mind the torque position) and sliding it out/off. Take yoke to driveshaft shop, and if possible with the new pinion seal (so they can verify dimensions for a good seal). They will then order and apply a speedi-sleeve (really nice metal band). Pay at the front and return home to do it all backwards/over again. And the price of this armchair quarterbacking? Let the forum know how this worked out - I for one would like to know the source of your pinion seals. I have been told a second hand rumor about the quality/fit from one of the large Packard suppliers selling a "new manufacture", and the report was not what I wanted to hear, so indeed, this is a "real" question that needs comment. Nearly everybody I know fights pinion seal leaks...

I recently had my pinion yoke "speedi-sleeved" due to wear in the pinion seal area. The comment was common wear due to dirt getting in this area. It was done at a driveshaft shop when I was having the yoke converted for a different u-joint. The cost was nominal, under $50 (25 or 30 if I recall), and was done as matter of routine good workmanship, no technical analysis required.

1938 for Certain. 110 for certain. Two Door for certain. Very difficult to ascertain from photos the area behind the front doors to determine if coupe or tudor. Another photo of this area, and I'll go on record.

How does it work?

I for one applaud your effort and creativity. Anybody can critisize; few can take the lead and create. Your sense of style is moderate and refreshing to respect the Packard lines as a basis. Good luck with your project, and as has been said, keep up the postings.

1937 Parts? Indeed, I'll adopt them into my orphanage. (bumpers/braces) Just lemme know what I can donate to the project, metal or paper, and I will comply. Also, if you wind up not using the transmission mount frame brackets, I'd be happy to provide a set of later (more usable) brackets as an alternative. flackmaster@sbcglobal.net

Its 1936-120, for certain, period. (though the box is 35-36 and the speaker 35-37, not that you would separate the items). I'll buy it, if you are looking to sell. flackmaster@sbcglobal.net

I hadn't even thought about that engine since I bought it about a year and a half ago. If you are serious, I would be happy to hear what you think it is worth - location is Dallas, TX and I would not sell it, nor would expect you to buy, it without hearing it run, so give me a couple days before you and your pickup truck head this way. David Flack, flackmaster@sbcglobal.net

Sounds to me like its crying out for a new owner - Me! especially as I have a rebuilt 1936 engine with about 5,000 miles on it (streetrod dropout) that would drop right in....