Denatured alcohol. Lacquer thinner. Are 2 i can think of. Just need to blow air thru lines.

From what i gone thru. It's the generator. After it was rebuilt. The field brush wire was touching the case. They are going to repair it and the armature may be bad. From it. But. I had enough .. So for now. Alternator.

I am sold on alternator..

That is a 65 amp. So working amps will be around 30 amps. Autozone lifetime replacement.

So i am on the road again..willy..what a pain.

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Fred.

Your right. Not the ignition switch. Generator does motorize. So working on my adapter for alternator. Till i figure out generator/regulator. Problem .
check field winding.

It looks like the resistors on back of reg. Got hot. They should have a fuse so you know what is going on.

V8. Filed the points.

there was a post somewhere about burned contacts in the ignition switch, it had to do with stating, but I think something about charging came up,

when I started the car the starter turned right over , then I started to get pause then it would turn over, I know that's starting problems,

I am in process of putting in relay now, but think I will take off belt and try to run generator, if it doesn't run, back to shop.

I did find a 1955 penny when I took out glove box, wonder if it's been there since the car was built.

thanks fred,

if I had a meter it would help, one of the things the book said was a short in wiring, so I thought solenoid, went to take out starter, the case was loose,,what the,, I was getting a dead contact when I turned key, then did it again it would turn,

so luckly nothing damage in starter, tighten it up ,with lock tight, tested it, no problems,

still charging problems, so I am at starter switch now,

one thing I didn't do when I got generator from shop is to motorize it , if it runs , generator is usally ok,

even bypassing the amp meter, wire from battery to volt reg nothing.

I need to build a rig, its simple but it just takes time,

autozone and others can't test these older ones, which is lack of foresight,

Dave. I was wondering that. If switch does not solve it. I did buy a 1 wire alternator. I just need to make a lower bracket. The alternator sits in further. Around 5/8s or so. And will have it sit higher.

Thanks

I am having same problem. Rebuilt gen. New reg. Repair shop said don't use oil. Grease only on brush side bearing.

After rebuild it worked for a day. Bearing went out. At idle 14v . then raise rpms it went to 18v.

Took to shop said armature that was good was wiped out. They replaced it. Still no charge . with new reg.

With key on noticed needle move to discharge. So took ignition switch out. Back of switch loose. My guess is switch is shorting out. Will know when i put another switch in. I have spares just had to make a dummy key. To get key cylinder out. 2 tries bingo. Key needs to be in run to remove cylinder.. And with hh help going to put in starting relay.

I have 1k or so on my reengineered ultra. I would still get off the babbit bushings

My only problem is when cold does not fully go into gear..as long as i warm it up no problem.

But its shifts firm .and sometimes smooth..i like the firm so you know it up shifted..still playing with t pressure. Once in awhile i will get flare. I have read the service letters on it.

Of coarse if ross drove it. He would pin it down..,

I live on a foothill so i have to go und down hills.

For any trans .you should use parking brake. And wheels against curb to take the load.