there was a post somewhere about burned contacts in the ignition switch, it had to do with stating, but I think something about charging came up,

when I started the car the starter turned right over , then I started to get pause then it would turn over, I know that's starting problems,

I am in process of putting in relay now, but think I will take off belt and try to run generator, if it doesn't run, back to shop.

I did find a 1955 penny when I took out glove box, wonder if it's been there since the car was built.

thanks fred,

if I had a meter it would help, one of the things the book said was a short in wiring, so I thought solenoid, went to take out starter, the case was loose,,what the,, I was getting a dead contact when I turned key, then did it again it would turn,

so luckly nothing damage in starter, tighten it up ,with lock tight, tested it, no problems,

still charging problems, so I am at starter switch now,

one thing I didn't do when I got generator from shop is to motorize it , if it runs , generator is usally ok,

even bypassing the amp meter, wire from battery to volt reg nothing.

I need to build a rig, its simple but it just takes time,

autozone and others can't test these older ones, which is lack of foresight,

Dave. I was wondering that. If switch does not solve it. I did buy a 1 wire alternator. I just need to make a lower bracket. The alternator sits in further. Around 5/8s or so. And will have it sit higher.

Thanks

I am having same problem. Rebuilt gen. New reg. Repair shop said don't use oil. Grease only on brush side bearing.

After rebuild it worked for a day. Bearing went out. At idle 14v . then raise rpms it went to 18v.

Took to shop said armature that was good was wiped out. They replaced it. Still no charge . with new reg.

With key on noticed needle move to discharge. So took ignition switch out. Back of switch loose. My guess is switch is shorting out. Will know when i put another switch in. I have spares just had to make a dummy key. To get key cylinder out. 2 tries bingo. Key needs to be in run to remove cylinder.. And with hh help going to put in starting relay.

I have 1k or so on my reengineered ultra. I would still get off the babbit bushings

My only problem is when cold does not fully go into gear..as long as i warm it up no problem.

But its shifts firm .and sometimes smooth..i like the firm so you know it up shifted..still playing with t pressure. Once in awhile i will get flare. I have read the service letters on it.

Of coarse if ross drove it. He would pin it down..,

I live on a foothill so i have to go und down hills.

For any trans .you should use parking brake. And wheels against curb to take the load.

Thanks craig.

Hh. Knows i had same question..thanks for taking charge..

I think 3 amps is plenty. By looking at wiring diagram. Easy to install. At the fuse box. To bypass regulator

Thanks..

Kev has.

Discovered some new words to in the process.

What i think would be the solution. Pour them in place with flexane.

Not sure what you call it but there is a watwr housing that bolts to block and pump goes on that.

If still want pictures i can take them.

Rubber expansion plugs pep boys have them. I use them. But one came out. Which what cause my 20 year rebuild. No more for me. I have stainless expansion plugs in this engine.